Bright Angel Trail to Grand Canyon South Rim 8.8.17

I was fortunate enough to go on a rafting trip in the Grand Canyon courtesy of my work. I rafted through the upper canyon for two days and on the morning of the third day I hiked from Phantom Ranch to the south rim via the Bright Angel trail. Another trip report has more information about the trip and the rafting portion, this report will focus on the hike out specifically. Heading into this trip I was most nervous for hiking out in the Grand Canyon heat. I had done several training hikes leading up to the trip, with the last one being to Camp Muir which was 4700’ of elevation gain over 4.5 miles with a 26 lb pack and starting at over 5400’. The hike out of the canyon would be about 4300’ of elevation gain over 9.5 miles with about a 22lb pack, so I physically knew I was capable of completing the hike, the question was how I would handle the heat. I asked my coworkers about their previous trips to get an idea of what to expect, since I like to be prepared. Everyone had started early and they had a duffle service. We did not have a duffle service but I packed accordingly (packing list in other trip report), so I wasn’t too concerned about that. We ended up camping about 10 miles upriver from Phantom Ranch which meant even though we woke up at 5am, we still had to wait for breakfast, load up the boats, travel those 10 miles (about an hour), and then unload. This resulted in me starting the hike at 8:30am, not 5:30am like I was hoping for. Throughout the canyon and on all of the websites there is a bold warning not to hike between 10am and 4pm, the heat of the day. We had a shuttle scheduled to take us back to Flagstaff at 6:30pm so we had to be up at the rim by then - looked like we’d all be hiking during the heat of the day. I loved this trip but my biggest gripe is starting the hike so late.

We probably got to the beach around 8am or so. We unloaded the boats including everyone’s dry bag and ammo can. I had tried to pack my backpack the night before so it was mostly ready, but there were a few things I needed to do still. I grabbed my tarp and set everything out on that. I stashed the rain pants I had worn on the boat and took off my sandals. I cleaned my feet so they weren’t sandy and duct taped my heels. I duct tape my heels to prevent blisters - cheap and more useful version of carrying moleskin. I do this on a lot of hikes before I start to prevent any blisters from forming. I put my socks and shoes on, applied sunscreen, attached my sandals to my pack, and got my GPS and camera transferred to my pack. I piled my sleeping bag, tarp, dry bag, and ammo cans with the rest and then continued up from the beach to the water source. I filled my 0.7L water bottle and added a propel packet for some raspberry flavoring and electrolytes, then filled my 2L camelbak bladder. It was hard getting the bladder into my pack with it full so I had to half unpack it. I had almost forgot the lunch I packed but someone brought it to me. I had only taken a granola bar and a few cookies since I brought my own hiking food - beef jerky, shotbloks, and peanut butter filled pretzels. Once I finally had everything packed up I said goodbye to the guides and started off on the trail. I was behind everyone I think but I wanted to go my own pace so I was ok with that.

[Left] Crossing the small creek. [Right] Crossing the silver suspension bridge on the Bright Angel trail.

The start of the hike winds past trails for Phantom Ranch, crossing a small bridge over a creek and then crossing the large silver suspension bridge over the Colorado River. Just before the bridge I saw a person from my work who was heading down for the second trip down canyon. The lower canyon group apparently started the hike down at 5:30a, so we’d pass several off them in the first couple miles of our trek up. Those first couple miles follow the contours of the canyon, hiking slightly above the river. There is not much elevation gain here and the trail actually rolls a bit so you lose a little elevation, which did not make any of us happy. Finally after a couple miles you round a corner and turn up the trail, passing a small bathroom, and finally heading away from the river. Here I passed my first creek and saw some coworkers dip their hats. I generally don’t like being wet - ever - but knew I’d need the water to help stay cool on the hike out, so I dipped the half buff I was wearing as a headband and continued on.

[Left] Looking back at the suspension bridge. [Right] Looking at the trail ahead as it follows the canyon walls above the river.

The next section finally started gaining some elevation and I was feeling the heat. I was probably hiking through this around 9:30am starting at about 2700’. There were lots of switchbacks but luckily some corners that offered shade. I only stopped briefly once, otherwise I kept going as it was early in the hike. I passed several coworkers and learned that one had forgotten his lunch, but he was up ahead of all of us. It was fun to look down on the switchbacks after I had completed them and garner some motivation from the progress I had made. I checked the elevation on my GPS knowing I had to get to about 6800’ but I wasn’t making very quick progress.

Looking down on the trail, I could see the switchbacks I had just come up

I passed another few streams and at one I dunked my headband again and decided it was time to grab my extra bandana. I dunked it as well and tied it around my neck to help cool myself down. I caught up to the missing lunch coworker and we hiked the last half mile or so to Indian Garden together. A first hiking experience for me was hiking under a horse. I stepped off the trail when a horseback tour was coming my way but they were stopping there to talk about something so to get back on the trail I had to go under a horse's head. We saw signs for Indian Garden but we had to go a little ways still before we made it to the benches in the shade with the water spout.

Almomst to Indian Garden

It took me about 2.5 hours to hike the 5 miles and gain 1400’ in elevation to get to Indian Garden from the beach at Phantom Ranch. I had purposely finished my 0.7L of powerade as it seemed too sweet and I really wanted water instead. I filled up my now empty 0.7L bottle again, rewetted my headband and bandana and ate some beef jerky. I gave my coworker the lunch I had packed - the granola bar and cookies. It wasn’t much but at least it was a little food for him. The thermometer posted said 100 degrees at 11am. A few other coworkers got to the gardens too so we chatted, and then I headed off on the trail after about a 15 minute break. I wouldn’t see anyone I knew again until the rim.

360 degree view from the trail

The trail is still relatively flat-ish heading out from Indian Garden. There were a few people who passed me during the first 5 miles to Indian Garden and I met a few more as I headed up to the 3 Mile resthouse, but overall the trail wasn’t too busy. As I continued on the trail I looked for people on the hillside above me, trying to figure out where the trail went. I spotted some on a switchback although I didn’t see the complete trail to the rim yet. I was actually excited to see the switchbacks because that meant I’d finally be gaining the elevation I needed to get me closer to the rim.

Spotted the switchbacks above me

A few switchbacks before the 3 mile resthouse a couple of rangers with trains of mules were heading down. I stepped off the trail onto a giant rock and watched them go by, carrying stuff down into the canyon. The rangers were friendly and said hi as they passed by.

Mules passing me on the trail

I spotted the resthouse above me which helped motivate me the last few switchbacks. It was fairly busy so I found a shady rock to sit on while I ate some more beef jerky. It had taken me about an hour to get there from Indian garden, traveling just under 2 miles and about 1000’ in elevation gain. I didn’t stay long, maybe five minutes, as I was actually feeling pretty good. I topped my 0.7L water bottle off and rewetted my headband and bandana again, then started on the trail to the 1.5 mile resthouse.

3 Mile Resthouse

The first half of the next section went fairly well. This section mostly consisted of switchbacks as I made my way up the canyon wall. There were certainly a lot more people now although not quite as many as the very top still, so it was an enjoyable hike. I felt a little tired so I started doing a rest step which probably looked really funny on the dirt trail and steps. I had a few people ask if I was ok and I told them I was fine, I didn’t try to explain I was purposely walking like that to give my muscles a break by putting my weight on my skeletal system. The nice thing about the Bright Angel trail is that there are little areas of shade along it, usually provided by the rock wall above. We lucked out though and had a few clouds cover the sun every so often for brief periods of relief.

Enjoying the view of the north rim and looking down at the trail to the 3 Mile Resthouse

About half way up this section I sat for a little while, feeling a bit depleted of energy. I slowly kept moving on the trail and eventually hit the 1.5 mile resthouse, it had taken me about an hour to hike 1.5 miles with about 1000’ in elevation gain. I didn’t think it was as nice as the 3 mile resthouse, but it had a water source so I didn’t complain. I picked out a spot on some rocks surrounded by lots of other hikers and finished off my beef jerky. After about a 10 minute break I topped off my water bottle again and rewetted the headband and bandana, all for the last time.

View across of the north rim from the trail above the 1.5 mile resthouse

I was partly motivated knowing this was the last section I’d have to hike to reach the rim. The last 1.5 miles and 1000’ in elevation. There were a lot more groups of tourists on this section of trail but most were fairly pleasant. I saw a ram in the bushes off the trail a bit. Other than that I saw a lot of squirrels during the hike, but not much else. I slowly made my way up, looking for the switchbacks above me so I had an idea of where I was heading. Throughout the entire hike the view of the canyon were stunning, looking out over the trail I had come up and across to the north rim. Finally I spotted a building at the rim. I still had a few hundred feet to go but I was almost there!

I spotted a building at the south rim, almost there!

This last section was probably the worst in terms of people on the trail. I was sweaty and had my larger pack on but people were focused on just getting their pictures and not paying attention to others. I ran into one guy who wasn’t looking where he was going. At that point I didn’t care though, I was almost done. I went through a couple small tunnels and finally made it to the rim, I was done! It took me 6 hours to hike the 10 miles and 4300’ in elevation. I walked along the path now in a sea of tourists and found a shady spot outside the very busy ice cream shop. As more coworkers made it to the rim we all met up and eventually got some ice cream and beer while we waited for the shuttle. Normally that type of hike would take me about 4 hours in Washington so the heat was definitely a factor, but overall it didn’t seem too bad. It was a great trip and we shared a lot of good stories about our struggle/hike out.

Picture at the south rim, I made it!

GPS track

Trail from Phantom Ranch to the South Rim via Bright Angel Trail. Track jumped a bit in the canyon so mileage and elevation gain is off.