Exit 38, Far Side: Headlight Point 5.28.17

Aaron suggested heading to Exit 38 one of the days during Memorial Day weekend for some cragging, so we decided to go Sunday to split up the hiking days. We slept in, Aaron cooked a nice breakfast, and we watched a little TV even before getting ready to go climb. It was nice, but it meant hiking in a bit later in the day in hotter weather. We arrived to a full parking lot near the fire training academy at Exit 38 so we parked along the road with several other cars. Aaron thought we should head to Far Side and picked out Headlight Point. It’s a bit of a hike in and I had to stop along the way and take several breaks. I was sweating pretty good and wasn’t sure how much climbing I’d be able to do. There was one other pair at the middle section when we got there. We took our time to rest a bit and get sunscreen on, then Aaron geared up to lead Swerve (5.7). I told Aaron he’d need to do most of the leading since I certainly don’t have my lead head back.

[Left] Aaron’s lead on Swerve (5.7). [Right] Aaron leading Light-Headed Again (5.8).

View east along I-90 from the anchor on Light-Headed Again (5.8)

It was a fun, blocky climb - although I’d find out most of the climbs in this area were also fun blocky climbs. Aaron suggested I lead it but after climbing it I cleaned it instead, not feeling the urge to lead it. Next Aaron led Light-Headed Again (5.8). It had a few moves up a face but otherwise another fun, blocky climb. Next I led In the Middle Again (5.6). As I got to the second bolt I questioned the route as the moves seemed harder than a 5.6. Aaron grabbed the book and told me I needed to head climber’s right instead of left for the 5.6, that it shared an anchor with Light-Headed Again (5.8). To the left was another 5.7. I continued up and finished In the Middle Again, then Aaron got to clean. Aaron led the 5.7 I didn’t do, Midnight Scrambler. It was a bit trickier but a fun climb. After we finished Headlight Point Left, we moved to a few routes in the Middle.

My lead on In the Middle Again (5.6). The first bolt is shared with Midnight Scrabmler(5.7). The 5.6 heads right while the 5.7 heads left.

I started by leading Swam (5.7). It goes up a ramp left, the heads back right. It was a bit longer than the first climbs but a fun lead. I took a minute for the final few moves to the anchor to get a better look at the options available for holds. Aaron cleaned that and then top roped Carnage Before Bedtime (5.10b), which shared the same anchor. Aaron really liked the route so he encouraged me to try it, even though I thought 5.10b would exceed my current abilities. I gave it a go. You go part way up the initial ramp and then head out under the roof. There are some finger underclings. Aaron advised me to get my feet high so I did that. I had my left hand where the chalk was and found another pocket up a little for my right hand. Then I was able to reach over and grab the jugs above the roof and pull myself over. There were a few more good climbing moves needed up the face, then I made it to the anchor. It was a fun route.

[Left] Aaron rappelling and cleaning Carnage Before Bedtime (5.10b) after leading it. [Right] My lead on Nocturnal Remission (5.8).

Aaron decided he wanted to lead it, but my first climb up it was tiring enough so I didn’t climb it again. Instead Aaron rappelled down and cleaned the route. For the last climb of the day I led Nocturnal Remission (5.8). I was just able to reach the bolts from ledges I felt comfortable on, otherwise it would have felt much harder. Aaron cleaned the route after me and we packed up to head home. I had only climbed at Far Side one other time, at Eastern Block. I liked the routes a lot better than what we usually do at Deception Crag, so I might be more open to Exit 38 climbing in the future.

Trail into Headlight Point at Far Side at Exit 38