Leavenworth: Icicle Ridge Cragging 4.29.17

The weather looked pretty decent in Leavenworth on Saturday so we decided to head that way to get some cragging in, then figure out if we'd climb more on Sunday or hike based on the weather. Luckily we hadn't really unpacked from last weekend so we loaded our stuff back into the car and hit the road about 7:30a Saturday morning. We stopped at the Sultan Bakery for some breakfast, then rolled down Icicle Creek a little after 10. We first went through the Eightmile campground but all of the sites had paper on them. We went to Bridgecreek and found more of the same. Then we realized if the date on the paper was 4/29, that meant the occupants left already assuming the campsite was cleared out. We headed back to Eightmile and found a site. Prices seemed to have increased since prior years - $22/night plus $14 per extra vehicle. After we setup up our tents we drove back down the road to the pull out for Clamshell Cave.

As we hiked up to the crag Aaron saw some people but we continued up anyways. We arrived to find a large group there with a rope down practically every route. After we heard them talking about how different people still needed to do different routes, we decided to go somewhere else instead of waiting for who knows how long to get on the rock. We stopped at Hammerhead Rock since we had to hike past it. There was a pair there that was just finishing up. I took the opportunity to start by leading the 5.6 dihedral crack. I slipped on my first move and face planted into the rock, but after that it went ok. Gloria cleaned it and then Aaron top roped the 5.10a arete. He thought about leading it but the distance between the first and second bolt definitely provides the opportunity to deck on the rock below if that second bolt is missed, so he opted not to. I top roped it next and then Gloria went.

[Left] Lowering down after my lead on the 5.6 dihedral at Hammerhead Rock. [Right] Gloria climbing the 5.10a arete at Hammerhead Rock.

Aaron did a quick lap on the 5.8 face climb between the crack and arete, then moved the rope over to the anchor for the 5.9 crack with double roofs. Aaron lowered down and then climbed it first since he was on the rope. Gloria climbed it next, while I went last and cleaned the anchor before walking around.

Gloria climbing the 5.9 crack at Hammerhead Rock

Trying to figure out what might be open I suggested we check Classic Crack, one of Aaron's favorite routes to lead. There were a bunch of cars parked along the road but again, just one pair at the crag and they were cleaning up. We lucked out! Apparently all the cars were from boulders in the nearby area. Aaron geared up and led Classic Crack (5.8+). Gloria and I both climbed (struggled) up it next. Gloria had the added burden of cleaning the route too. I think my crack technique is getting a little better but I still had to take a few breaks on my way up. Next Aaron led Deception Crack (5.9), an interesting arcing crack. I hadn't climbed these routes in quite a while but I remember it being tough because you can't really jam in part of the crack. Gloria again followed and cleaned the gear, and I went last. I had to take a couple times again but before long I reached the horn and pulled myself up onto the slabby section to the top.

[Left] Aaron leading Classic Crack (5.8+) at Eightmile Rock. [Right] Aaron leading Deception Crack (5.9) at Eightmile Rock.

I lowered down and then climbed Mickey Mantle (5.7) right away since I was on the rope. It was trickier than I remembered but also what I needed. I think part of my bad lead head right now is not trusting my feet so I need to get more slab climbing in to get back there. Aaron climbed it next and then Gloria went last so she could clean the anchor. I walked up to the top just so she could double check a few things since she hadn't cleaned an anchor in a while. She did great and rappelled down. Aaron wanted to lead one last route so he geared up for Twin Cracks (5.8), to the left of Classic Crack. He didn't like the flarey section but got through that without too much issue. Gloria followed it next and I went last to clean the anchor. Again, I had to take a few breaks. Trying to navigate between the three cracks at the bottom was interesting. I wanted some good jams but the crack was a bit big for that. After that we called it a day and went into town to grab some food and drink, before retiring somewhat early to our tents as it was lightly starting to rain. I fell asleep before 9pm and it was glorious.

[Left] Climbing Mickey Mantle (5.7) at Eightmile Rock. [Right] Aaron leading Twin Cracks (5.8) at Eightmile Rock