Mount Erie - Powerline Wall 9.5.14

We were all taking Friday off to head out and rock climb somewhere. It needed to be a day trip so we could be back for festivities at night, and have route options for all of us to lead. We decided to check out Mount Erie, a place most of us hadn't climbed outside of BCC in our mountaineering boots. Aaron had conveniently just ordered the new guide book which showed up on Wednesday. We left Seattle just before 7:30a on Friday and grabbed some breakfast on the way. We parked at the top and hiked down to Powerline Wall, vaguely remembering landmarks from years prior.

[Left] View from Mount Erie out over the Strait of Juan de Fuca. [Right] Sliding down the ramp to reach the bottom of Powerline Wall.

Powerline Wall west has mostly sport routes. Aaron started on False Impressions (5.8). The route looked like it had some good jugs but the holds weren't as positive as I expected, and Aaron noted a lot of side pull holds - a characteristic of the wall. The rock reminded me of Exit 38. Next Matt led Treeshadow (5.8), the only route on that section of the wall with some trad. After starting up a corner thing with detached blocks, I traversed right and slightly up on some ledges (good feet) until I reached the crack. One hand jam and I was through it, I liked it better than False Impressions.

[Left] Aaron starting the day by leading False Impressions (5.8). [Right] Matt leading Treeshadow (5.8).

From the anchor on False Impressions we could also top rope Lasting Impressions (5.9+), so we all gave that a try. I was last to climb it and hadn't seen what the others figured out. Instead, I found a little finger pocket for my right hand and was able to reach up high to get the left hold, and finished up the easier terrain. The rest had used a side pull for their right hand a little lower. Matt had used the anchor above Intimidator for Treeshadow, so next we climbed some of the sport routes from that anchor. Aaron started on Lethal Weapon (5.10c/d) and then climbed Intimidator (5.10a). I skipped the first one and just climbed Initimdator. Wanting to lead something soon I figured I shouldn't use all of my energy and strength. It was a long climb full of little ledges and finger tip holds. The crux is high at the bulge, which then leads to easier slab climbing. It was fun but it sure gave the fingers a good workout.

[Left] Aaron climbing Lethal Weapon (5.10c/d). [Right] Alicia climbing Intimidator (5.10a).

Next I continued right along the wall with Alicia to try and find the 5.5 climbs her and Sara were scoping out, so we could lead something. We scrambled up the gully (not awesome in running shoes) and after a while of trying to match up the topo in the book with what we were looking at, we felt confident we found the start to The Right Stuff (5.5). We weren't sure exactly where it went though. I got elected to lead, with Alicia and Sara following. I started up the wide corner, found a couple of little cracks for pieces, and eventually made it right onto the giant ledge. There may have been a pseudo beach-myself-move involved to reach a foot hold.

Leading the Right Stuff (5.5) before connecting it with Tindall's Terror (5.7)

Once on the ledge I started to go up the corner, assuming it was the next 5.5 route I intended to follow up to the trees. I put a couple of pieces in and found an old, broken off piton. The corner was a bit overhung without great feet so I decided to down climb, pull my gear, and find a better way up. I went a little farther right towards a nice looking crack that arcs left across the face, I think the start of Tindall's Terror (5.7). I made a few moves up the blocky terrain to reach the crack. I was pretty excited to sink a few jams, only to realize the crack was fairly short lived. I plugged another piece in and continued up, clipping the first bolt. From here I traversed left to the trees, since that was our original goal, and fought the heinous rope drag from my many traverses as I made it up to the top tree. I anchored in and got a good workout bringing Alicia and Sara up. Aaron and Matt climbed something else nearby, then grabbed the packs and hiked up to meet us. It was fun to get to climb at Mount Erie, although I'm not sure the rock nor style of climbing is my favorite, I think I'll stick to Leavenworth and Squamish for my weekend trips.