Squamish - Smoke Bluffs & Skywalker 8.2 - 8.3.14

Aaron and I headed up to Squamish to help instruct with the BRC class. Saturday we got the rare chance to instruct together at Smoke Bluffs. We started on Laughing Crack (5.7) and just beat another group up there. Aaron led it first with Sammy following, then they walked down to the Neat and Cool area while I led it and Jean followed. I had followed Sara's lead on Laughing Crack back in May so I got to lead it this time, still a fun climb! Aaron had led Flying Circus (5.10a) by time we got down there, so both Jean and I top roped it. I had been wanted to climb it for a couple of years now but it's always been busy. The crux of moving over cracks was definitely challenging for me. Aaron set a rope up on Neat and Cool (5.10a) to challenge Sammy, so as we waited we scrambled up and I led Cat Crack (5.7). It was a lot wider than Laughing Crack but another good crack for Jean to get some climbing on. Next I top roped Neat and Cool (5.10a) and made it through the traverse to the point of pulling up and into the crack. I didn't quite have enough strength and fell out of the crack. After a break, I got myself up and finished. It was about noon so we took a break for lunch before walking to Call it a Day, an area with 5.6 and 5.7 routes we had found the previous year.

[Left] Aaron leading Laughing Crack (5.7). [Right] Jean climbing Flying Circus (5.10a).

Neat and Cool (5.10a)

I started by leading Buster (5.7), and then led Pee Wee (5.7). These climbs are short and not super crack like, although Buster has a thin finger crack at the top which is fun. Aaron had led Clean Streak (5.6) so the Sammy could do a mock lead. After climbing the 5.7's, Jean top roped Clean Streak. She thought it would be a good route to do a mock lead on as well so she did that next. I followed to critique gear placements, then cleaned the anchor. Our last stop of the day was at Octopus' Garden. Aaron gave me my choice of climbs to lead, and not liking the start on Edible Panties (5.7) I chose to lead Octopus' Garden in the Shade (5.8). I made it up the flake fine and starting up the climb. It was a on the edge of my comfort zone and after a bit of a runout section, I felt a bit shaky leading but I made it to the top. Jean climbed that next, as it's a long crack great for learning on. Next we switched ropes with the guys and we top roped Edible Panties (5.7). It was close to the end of the day and after 9 climbs we felt fairly accomplished so we headed back to the parking lot. On the way Aaron dropped a rope on Kangaroo Corner (5.11a) to give Sammy a challenge. After that, we hightailed it back to the parking lot to make it back in time for the class debrief.

[Left] Rope down Pee Wee (5.7) with Buster (5.7) to the left. [Right] Aaron led Clean Streak (5.6).

[Left] My lead on Octopus' Garden in the Shade (5.8). [Right] Jean climbing Edible Panties (5.7).

Sammy climbing Kangaroo Corner (5.11a)

Aaron worked it out so that we could have a free day on Sunday and climb together. His plan was to climb Skywalker (5.8), a five pitch route near Shannon Falls. We had climbed it together a couple of years prior so this time we swapped which pitches we led. We showed up before 8am and found a line so we patiently waited our turn for the three groups to start in front of us, behind the several groups already on route. The two groups in front of us had some issues with the crux second pitch, The Flume (5.8). Aaron found an alternate 5.8 to the left. It was very thin, petering out to slab up top. I decided to give it a go though so that we could pass the teams. I got some nuts and my smallest gear - C3's #1 and 2, C4 #0.3 - in after some large runout sections, then it was time to head out onto the slab. I put blind faith in my feet/shoes and made it up to the bolt, and from there up to the anchor before I headed back into the corner at the top of the second pitch to finish off the last 20 feet to the anchor. Aaron followed and the team behind us also did the alternate to pass both teams as well.

Aaron leading pitch one (5.7) of Skywalker

[Left] Looking up the alternate 5.8 on pitch 2. [Right] Looking down at the alternate 5.8 on pitch 2

Aaron led the third pitch, I got the fun fourth Skywalker traverse pitch, and then he finished up to the top. Afterwards we dropped our stuff on the trail and hiked up to the pools at Shannon Falls. Aaron strongly encouraged me to join him on the big rock in the middle of the falls so after finding a large stick to help make the big step easier, I did and we enjoyed the views and some time up there before hiking back down. There was one group on Klahanie Crack (5.7) when we got down but no one waiting so we jumped in line. I got to lead yet another classic Squamish climb and it was an awesome crack. I hand jammed up with my feet outside the crack mostly, placing all of my #0.5s and 0.75s, with a #1. I wish I had more #0.75s! Aaron followed and cleaned, and then we headed back to the states after a great weekend of climbing in Squamish!