Cathedral Peak - Southeast Buttress 6.14.14
Cathedral Peak (left) looming above Tuolumne Meadows, as seen from the top of Lembert Dome
Aaron had his eye on Cathedral Peak, a very distinct granite peak in Tuolumne Meadows. The Southeast Buttress route up Cathedral Peak is an easy, one day alpine climb - except that it tops out just shy of 11,000’. Luckily we (I) had a few days to acclimate and we spent them climbing, hiking, and camping between 8600’ and 9500’. Saturday morning we woke up about 6:15a and decided to eat breakfast in the car. The campground was cold (the water pipe was frozen) so we figured some sunshine in the car at the trailhead would be a better breakfast spot. Aaron stored the remaining food items in one of the bear boxes at the trailhead and we hit the trail to Cathedral Lakes about 7:20a. We followed the John Muir trail up towards the lakes for just under a half mile before finding the well maintained climbers trail heading off towards Budd Creek to the left. There was a log across the trail to keep tourists from accidentally straying from the John Muir trail to Cathedral Lakes.
Climber's trail to the left, branching off of the John Muir Trail
We hiked above the creek for a little distance before heading back right, over some slab sections. The climbers’ trails throughout Tuolumne Meadows were in great condition and were generally well marked. As we crossed the sections of slab, we didn’t even have to follow cairns as the entire path was lined with rocks.
Rock lined trail across the slabs
About an hour into our approach at 9600’, I took a quick break to fuel. We continued plodding along, getting our first good views of Cathedral Peak. From a distance it reminded us of Prusik Peak, but with a much easier approach. We noted some trails along the way describing the new descent trail marked with signs, in order to reduce the number of climbers trails crossing the hillside and to allow the vegetation to return.
Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress is on the left side
As we reached the last steep section on the approach to the base of the route, we noted a couple of groups up on the rock both above and below the chimney, the start of pitch 3. We somehow lucked out and no one else was at the base of the climb. Cathedral Peak is one of the most popular climbs in Tuolumne Meadows so we felt very lucky to be there on a gorgeous Saturday morning without many other groups. There are three main routes up Cathedral Peak, varying from 5.6 to 5.8, with a standard five pitches. With so many route options, groups are able to choose their own adventure up the face to pass the crowds. We chose to try and follow the classic 5.6 line up the face. We decided to combine the traditional first and second pitch into one and simul-climb it, which is why we brought so much gear. It took us (me) an hour and 45 minutes to reach the base. We ate some food, transferred gear between the follower pack and the one left behind, and got ready. Aaron hung his pack from the dead tree to keep from the marmots and started up the face.
Approximate route we took up the Southeast Buttress
There is no real distinct starting point on the Southeast Buttress, rather we aimed for the tree we planned to use for our anchor at the top of the first pitch. Luckily we had climbed two days in Tuolumne Meadows so we had gotten used to the knobby granite. Aaron started up some low angle terrain before reaching the first of many small cracks up the face. Just as I was about to start simul-climbing, another group arrived at the base. However, by combining the first couple of pitches, they never caught up to us and we never had to wait for anyone in front of us. Several small cracks and flakes brought us to the large tree that Aaron slung for our anchor. I took the remaining gear from him as he took the follower’s pack, and I started up. I knew I was supposed to head up and climber’s right to the base of the chimney. I found some good cracks on the way up, but at some point decided the crack heading up left looked better than the one heading up right. I got a little off route, I think adding some steeper 5.7 climbing, but found a ledge to traverse to the base of the chimney. I slung a bush, horn, and placed a cam before bringing Aaron up.
Aaron at the start of pitch 3, just below the chimney
Looking up the chimney, the start of pitch 3
Aaron took the gear back and started up the third pitch, the chimney. The chimney is a bit tight at the start but widens a few moves up. Aaron couldn’t quite get all of the gear on his hips into the chimney right away so he climbed outside on the face before it widened up a little more. He did a step across at the top of the chimney, then headed up some fourth class terrain before finishing up on mid fifth class terrain. There was a bit of face climbing on the knobs in between the cracks. Aaron climbed almost a full rope length before he found a dirty ledge to build an anchor on. I knew I could fit in the chimney but not with the pack on, so I hauled it from my belay loop. At the top of the chimney I put the pack on, did the step across, and continued up Aaron’s run out pitch.
View from the trail of the third and fourth pitch
For the fourth and final pitch, I headed up to another ledge before climbing the first of two 5.6 cracks. Another ledge above that brought me to the last 5.6 crack, which topped out at the base of the fourth class summit block. I went up the crack on the left and as soon as I made it over the ledge, I was met with some big exposure and horrendous rope drag. I stopped at the base of the summit block and built an anchor. We had about 15 feet to the summit so Aaron just continued past me with the gear he had cleaned and set up on the summit. The summit block is big enough for two, maybe three people if you cuddle. Aaron managed to wiggle in a couple of pieces of gear before bringing me up. I left the gear in as I climbed so we could use it on the down climb. It was very windy on top and without much room to move around, we took some pictures and headed back down.
View from the summit of Cathedral Peak, 10,911'
Eichorn's Pinnacle just north of Cathedral Peak
Aaron and I on the summit
I re-led the summit block on the way down and placed a couple more pieces of gear on the traverse around the summit block. Aaron followed, we unroped, and started the down climb. We should have maybe stayed roped up a few more feet as the first downclimb move was very exposed fourth class. I wasn’t quite tall enough to lower myself and touch the ground so I dropped as Aaron caught me. From there we picked our way down slabby ledges until we could head over the ridge and through the notch to find the actual descent trail. Once at the trail we changed back into our approach shoes and followed the trail, complete with sections of rock steps, back to the base of the route.
Aaron on the descent trail with the summit of Cathedral Peak above his head
It took us about an hour from the summit to get back to the start. We packed up, grabbed some snacks, and high tailed it back to the car. There were a couple of groups ready to start climbing and several more we passed on the trail. Apparently they all had an afternoon climb in mind! Our main objective for starting early was to get back to the Tuolumne Meadows Grill and Store before they closed at 5p so we could get ice cream and beer. We made it back to the car just after 3p, with plenty of time to spare.
Well earned snacks back in camp
Gear:
Set of BD stoppers; BD C3 cams #1 and 2; BD C4 cams #0.3 through #3 with doubles of #0.5 through #2; 10 single and 4 double slings; 2 cordelettes; 60m rope; sunscreen; snacks
View Tuolumne Meadows in a larger map
Places we climbed and hiked in Tuolumne Meadows