Tuolumne Meadows - Dozier Dome 6.12.14

Eric was in Tuolumne Meadows on Thursday so we got to climb with him. After some pancakes for breakfast and looking through the guide book, we finally decided to check out Dozier Dome. Holdless Horror (5.6), a four pitch climb there had been recommended to Eric by a friend. After a little navigation we found the right pullout with a really nice trail right there. We took that into the trees, crossed the stream, and took a left. Out on the slab Eric spotted the correct cairns and we were soon on a very nice trail up to the rock. There were only two other people on the wall on another route. The climb was mostly in the shade but that changed by time we hit the third pitch. Aaron took the first pitch, a 5.4. There was mostly a crack but we generally stayed outside of the crack and used the knobs on the face. Aaron built a gear anchor at the big ledge and brought Eric and I up. Eric took the second pitch, a wide 5.6. The book stated that if you climbed it like a chimney it as a 5.0, but I think all of us stayed outside of the crack on the knobs, making it a 5.6. It was wide and awkward and I wasn’t a big fan. Initially Aaron said I should climb the third pitch, but while climbing the second pitch, I wasn’t so sure. With some encouragement from Aaron and after checking out the finger sized crack that I could see on the third pitch, I decided to give it a go.

[Left] Holdless Horror (5.6) is the left most crack in the photo. [Right] Aaron leading the first pitch (5.4) of Holdless Horror


Aaron just below the belay ledge for pitch 1, with a good look of the 5.6 crack on pitch 2 above

All of the cracks took nuts well so we placed a bunch. I even found a spot for the #4 cam on the pitch. I had sewn up the first part of the pitch, the more vertical section, so I started running it out more to make sure I had enough gear to reach a belay ledge and set up an anchor. I eventually got to what seemed like a decent ledge with two #0.75s, two #2s, and some nuts. I used a #0.75, 2, and a nut to build my anchor, then wheeled Aaron and Eric up. I was tired from belaying the two of them up via guide mode, so since Eric was already tied into the lead rope, he led the fourth and final pitch, a 5.4. It was dominated by knobs on the face as it was lower angled than the other pitches.

[Left] Looking up the fourth and final pitch (5.4). [Right] Aaron climbing pitch 4

We reached Eric on easier third/fourth class terrain, coiled the rope, and started up the slab in hopes of finding a rappel anchor nearby. I spotted some chains climber’s right that seemed decent enough to get to. Aaron and I hiked up and right a bit, then came back down easier terrain to reach them. Eric just walked down the slab straight at them, much more comfortable on the rock than we were yet. We ended up rappelling down and climber’s right a bit to reach the next set of chains. Three double rope rappels brought us to the base. After some lunch, Eric decided he should actually rest on his rest day and went back to the car. He left us his rope though so we could do another route and double rope rappel down.

[Left] Aaron walking across the slab towards the rappel chain, overlooking the surrounding mountains. [Right] Aaron and Eric watching the ropes head down for the second rappel

Aaron and I eventually decided to climb Bull Dozier (5.7), a three pitch climb just right of Holdless Horror, described as shorter but better. The book listed the route as three 5.7 pitches. Aaron wanted to swing leads so he let me pick if I wanted the first or second pitch, the seemingly more difficult ones. The book called for a #4 on the second pitch, and wanting to avoid all things wide, I took the first pitch which looked to be more finger sized – perfect! By default then, I also would get to lead the third pitch which was suppose to start up a 5.7 crack which petered out to fourth class slab. From the topo, it looked like there might be chains on the next route to the right, we just weren’t sure what the terrain in between was like to be able to get over to them. After some shenanigans finding a scramble route up the slab to the belay ledge, I started up. Some low angled ramps, mostly involving knob climbing, led to the 5.7 finger crack. It took gear pretty well and I could really settle into jamming up the crack so it was a lot of fun. I climbed with my hands and left foot in the crack, using the knobs outside for my right foot. The crack gave way to knobby, lower angled terrain which I ran out more as I neared the right facing corner. I stopped a few moves up the corner on a little ledge to build my anchor. I used a C3, #0.75, and a nut.

[Left] Bull Dozier (5.7) is the crack that heads up just left of the Z cloud. [Right] Looking up the start of pitch two (5.7)

Aaron sailed up to me, grabbed the gear, and started the second pitch. At the top of the corner was a bulge with a wide crack next to it, where Aaron placed the #4. Above that the angle backed off and Aaron climbed knobs as the crack petered out, building a gear anchor when the pockets were more plentiful again. I was very happy not to lead that pitch as the wide section was a bit more challenging for me. Pitch three turned out to be more 5.5 terrain – knobby, low angled with small pockets for protection. I started up it, with big runouts since the pockets were few and far between. I placed one last #0.75 in the top pocket before heading out onto the slab fourth class terrain. I started traversing a bit right, hoping I might spot the chains of the next anchor over. I did, and I saw a small seam that went part way across the face so I walked along that. A few good knobs were conveniently located after the seam to get me down to the ledge at the chains. I anchored in, brought Aaron up and over, and we set up the double rope rappel.

[Left] Looking up the start of the third pitch. [Right] Aaron about to start up the third pitch and do the traverse over to the rappel chains at the top of the next route over

It was the same set of chains we had used for our second rappel anchor earlier so we were pretty happy that we had found it and could get down instead of doing the long hike down in our rock shoes. Two double rope rappels brought us back to the base of the rock. We packed up and headed back down the trail. We missed the very last turn right before the stream and popped out along the road a little ways from the car, but we could see it still at least. It was a great day of multi-pitch and climbing some cracks.