BOEALPS Spring Campout - Leavenworth 5.1 - 5.3.14

Aaron had some vacation time to take so he decided to flex his schedule so that he'd get a 5 day weekend for the annual BOEALPS spring campout. I was able to flex my schedule to get Thursday and Friday off to join him, so he and Matt hit Index Wednesday, then Luke and I joined them Thursday and we drove out to Leavenworth.

Great day along Icicle Creek for some climbing

We had the group site at Bridge Creek for the weekend so we grabbed one of their normal sites for Thursday night. We decided to treat the long weekend trip as a test run for our summer climbing trip. Aaron got a kitchen tub and bought a few utensils we needed. We were able to fit everything in my car without the cargo box on the top, so we're hoping we might be able to repeat that this summer - granted we'll have more clothing, food, and I'm sure a few other things too. Aaron and Matt were pretty tired from Index and a little sore, so we decided to take it easy. By time we had stopped for breakfast in Sultan, set up camp, and played with the solar cells a little, it was after noon. We decided to go to Domestic Dome, it had some easier climbs and I hadn't really climbed there before. There was one other group on the rock when we got there. I started by leading Ranchstyle (5.6), a long, slabby sport climb. I had done the route several years before, Aaron had actually taught me how to clean an anchor on it. I took a #.75 and 1 cam with me for the one flake. Turns out a #2 works a lot better but I managed to get a #1 in there. The bolts always seemed just a little high for me to protect the moves I wanted protected. I'm guessing a tall person set the route? I always had to make a move or two before I could reach the bolt. The route is definitely a rope stretcher with a 60m, with a little finangaling with the belayer heading up some rock, I was able to reach the ledge.

Matt climbing the unnamed 5.7 and then Ranchstyle (5.6)

Aaron cleaned the route but we left the rope up for Luke and Matt. Luke had planned to lead a 5.8 that shared an anchor with another 5.9 and 5.11a. Turns out he lead the Unnamed 5.7 route instead. It had a few bolts but I believe he placed a piece of gear as well for protection, as the runnout between a couple of the bolts was pretty large. It was another slabby climb with some balancey moves. Aaron climbed it second and cleaned the anchor, while Luke decided to pull the other rope and re-lead Ranchstyle (5.6). After some lunch in the shade, we packed up and headed up hill. Matt had climbed a nice 5.7 crack somewhere above Domestic Dome. The only problem is that he had done it on his way down from Givler's Crack so we weren't exactly sure how to get up to it. We started up and made it to the top of Domestic Dome, then started up and left. The book said about 10 minutes. We stopped and checked again, we had to go above another buttress. I had worn my keens, not the best for hiking up the mountainside, so Aaron and I turned around. Luke and Matt continued up to those climbs while we went down to Roto Wall.

Hiking around above Domestic Dome

The only climb I had ever done at Roto Wall was my very first trad lead, so I was curious what else was there. It also meant the other two could walk and meet us there when they were done. There was a big guide class taking place so we stayed away from the normal cracks and I started by leading Non-Vertical Smile (5.6). There was a series of horizontal cracks that I placed gear in as I climbed up the slab, to the final crack to the top. It was a short route but a nice, easy one to get back into my gear placement. Next I led Slippin' n' Slidin' (5.7) a route aptly named. It had two bolts to protect down lower on the polished slab. I was able to clip the second bolt ok, but had a hard time trying to get up the slab to the horizontal crack where I could place more gear. I tried going up left, fell several times, so then I tried going up right. In the end I grabbed the draw and stood on the bolt to get to the crack, not my finest climbing by any means. After that we packed up and hung out at the car, waiting for the other two. Eventually we reconnected and went back to camp where it was the first night of camping dinner - pork chops, green beans, and mashed potatoes. It was pretty tasty and we identified a few items we need to get to complete our camping kit.

We woke up about 7am on Saturday and made breakfast. Breakfast burritos with egg, sausage, hashbrowns, green pepper, and cheese - delicious. I definitely ate too much so it was nice to take some time to move camp before we started climbing. We walked our fully assembled tents down to the group site and staked them down, threw our bags inside, and then headed for Castle Rock. I had never climbed there while Aaron and Matt had done a little bit, so we decided to go back. Aaron wanted to climb Catapult (5.8) so I got to lead the first pitch, The Fault (5.6). Justin and Luke started up as the first team, then Aaron, Matt, and I followed as the second team. The Fault has the tree about half way up the chimney. I managed to get one cam in at the base of the chimney in the back, then I climbed up until I could sling the base of the tree. I did a pull up on the tree since it was easier than chimneying, and found some more gear placements. I continued chimneying up, then protected the move to exit the chimney and pull over the bulge. It was just challenging enough. I had been nervous before starting up but I made it and slung the group of trees as an anchor since Justin and Luke were anchored into the bolts. Then I got to set up the ATC guide to belay Matt and Aaron up - man was that a workout! I never knew belaying could be more physically taxing than leading, I was sweating! Since Aaron was leading the second pitch, Catapult (5.8) he clipped into the bolts and we started sliding the gear down the rope to him.

[Left] Justin leading The Fault (5.6). [Right] Sliding gear to Aaron so he could rack before leading Catapult (5.8)

After some shenanigans we got the ropes reflaked and all of us anchored into the bolts so the next group of three behind us could get to the tree. Aaron did a great job leading. I was tied into the middle of the rope so I was second up to clean the gear. It was a burly climb and I lie backed a few sections. I reached Aaron and he was kind enough to belay Matt up so that I could get a break. The top pitch of Catapult is a 5- so I led that one as well. As Aaron belayed Matt up, I re-racked the gear so I'd be ready to go right away. The third pitch is mostly blocky terrain with some large runout sections. Rope drag was getting pretty bad near the top. I topped out, slung a tree, and set up my ATC guide again to bring both Aaron and Matt up at the same time. I had a better system this time so I wasn't as exhausted after belaying them.

[Left] Aaron leading Catapult (5.8). [Right] Start of the second pitch on Catapult (5-)

We took a quick break to drink water and eat something, the sun was pretty intense. Midway was miraculously open so we geared up to get on it. Aaron elected Matt to lead it for us since he hadn't led anything that morning. Since Luke and Justin had both climbed Midway at least once, they went around the corner to climb Saber (5.6) which was also crowded. As we were flaking our ropes another couple got in line behind us. They had done the route 27 years ago and were anxious to climb it again. Matt started up the polished corner to the top of Jello Tower. It looked like a challenging climb, mostly because of the quality of the rock. He made it up and Aaron started climbing second. Once he cleaned the first piece I started up behind him. The rock was definitely smooth so I put blind faith into my shoes. There was a nice crack in the back of the corner I could get some arm bars in. The last 15 feet or so looked to be the trickiest so I let Aaron top out so that Matt could give me a tighter belay through that section. We made it onto Jello Tower and Aaron handed the gear back to Matt so he could lead the final pitch - we combined the top two pitches into one. The hardest part, at least mentally for me, is that step across back onto the rock from the tower. We had a few route finding issues but eventually Matt found a line he like and went up.

Matt leading the first and second pitch of Midway (5.6)

The guy of the couple behind us topped out on the first pitch as Matt finished leading the second. He said he remembered the granite being a lot stickier when he climbed it last. I was really nervous for the step across. Aaron started off first again and got up onto the ledge. The guy was nice enough to offer me his hand as he was anchored in, if it'd help. I politely declined, leaned across to catch myself with my hands, and then transitioned my feet over. Once up the first few moves the rock quality improved, at least in stickiness, and I followed a little ways behind Aaron. Since the route traversed a little bit in places, Aaron left some pieces for me to clean. There were fun knobs and cracks on the second pitch, I definitely enjoyed the climbing more. The last piece I cleaned was slung with Matt's personal anchor, he was getting creative on the long pitch! I topped out at the boulders and we coiled the ropes. Luke topped out not long after me so we waited for Justin and then headed down. We hiked down in our rock shoes, not ideal, but at least we did't have to carry three pairs of shoes up either. Since none of us had a real lunch we decided to head into town to get some ice cream, catch up with the world a bit, and grab something at the store for the potluck on Saturday night. It was a fun day of climbing at Castle Rock, and our timing seemed pretty good as we just beat groups to the routes we wanted to get on. When we got back to camp there were a few fellow BOEALPers there so we chatted as Aaron made chicken curry for dinner. Another tasty dinner we'll keep on our menu for the road trip, with a pretty easy cleanup.

Aaron and I topped out on Castle Rock thanks to Matt's lead up Midway (5.6), just before Luke and Justin topped out on Saber (5.6)

Aaron helped out a BCC team Saturday morning setting up all of their anchors, so I slept in a bit. I was suppose to be in charge of breakfast so we had toast and cereal. I found the stove and figured out the toaster. I was suppose to pick Aaron up at 9am at the Snow Creek parking lot. I glanced at my watch while I was chatting and noticed it was 8:59am so I abruptly excused myself and jumped in my car. Aaron had started walking along the road so I picked him up when I met him. We went back to camp so he could eat some breakfast as well, cleaned up, and then figured out where to head. Wanting to stay closer to the road and assuming most of the rocks were packed since so many classes were in the area, we started at Hammerhead Rock. I led the Dihedral (5.6) and took on the challenge of placing as much gear as possible. Angie and Sara had climbed at Vantage the day before, where Sara taught Angie how to clean an anchor. Continuing on that lesson, she taught her how to clean gear at Hammerhead so I got to place more than I usually do. I was pretty proud I put in 9 pieces, cams #0.5 through 4 and a couple of nuts. Angie did a great job of cleaning and racking the gear! Aaron set a top rope up on the Crack (5.9) and we used the rope for the Dihedral on the Arete (5.10a) since they share an anchor. I went up the Arete next, gaining more confidence in my new shoes on those slabs. I stuck close to the arete, keeping my right hand on it, and made it up.

[Left] Leading Dihedral (5.6) at Hammerhead. [Right] Sara climbing the Arete (5.10a) at Hammerhead

I was one of the last to get on the crack. I remember it being fairly burly, with some challenging moves to pull over the last little roof/bulge. Sara had reinforced my tape gloves the weekend before so it was day two of trying them out. I jammed a little, and of course, did a little lie backing, with an awkward beaching move to get over the final bulge. It definitely wasn't pretty but I made it. After the crew had a chance to climb everything we packed up and walked back to the cars to eat lunch.

Angie climbing the Crack (5.9) at Hammerhead

One of the routes on Aaron's tick list for the weekend was Meat Grinder (5.10a) at Alphabet Rock. We drove there next and luckily there was one group just coming off of the route. Aaron geared up to lead that while the rest of the crew went up to Dogleg Crack (5.8+) which Matt led. Aaron did a great job of working through the burly, wide section of Meat Grinder. I took a break after belaying so Austin cleaned it, then I climbed it as well. Aaron kept me on a tight belay which was much appreciated. I left my long sleeves and tape gloves on, and proceeded to get all up in the crack. I lie backed the first tricky section but I actually managed to fist jam my way through the upper crux section. I took a few breaks along the way, but it was a great lead by Aaron!

Aaron led Meat Grinder (5.10a) at Alphabet Rock. A burly, at times off-width, crack

I opted not to climb Dogleg Crack again this week and cheese grate across the face again. Austin led Hind Quarters (5.10a) a sport route next to Dogleg Crack, and then we went to camp to beat the classes back before the potluck. It rained Saturday night while we slept. We packed up camp Sunday morning and headed into town. The rock looked fairly wet as we drove and the forecast was calling for a 70% chance of rain. Considering we had gotten 3 and 4 days of climbing in, we decided to head home and relax a bit. It was a great weekend of climbing in Leavenworth and a great first try of our new car camping setup.