Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9.1 - 9.3.13
Prusik Peak was high on my to-do list this year, so Aaron and I applied for a bunch of Enchantments permits through the lottery in March. Unfortunately we didn't get any, but any open spots would be up for grabs come April 1. I scoured the dates, trying to find one that we thought would have a high potential for good weather and also provide a nice three day window for us. I found some open spots on the Sunday of Labor Day weekend and was quick enough to claim them for myself early in the morning on the first. I got six spots for a camping permit in the Snow Lake zone. I had never gone in that way before so it'd be something new to try. The tentative plan was to head in on Sunday and set up camp. Monday we'd climb the west ridge of Prusik with maybe a walk-up or two afterward, with another opportunity for a walk-up on Tuesday before heading back out. I still had McClellan Peak, Enchantments Peak, and Canon Mountain on my to-do list - all easy walk-ups in the Enchantments. After a fun day in Leavenworth cragging and hanging out in town on Saturday, I was ready to head into the Enchantments. My two prior trips with Sara were long day trips in from Aasgard Pass and always with snow and cloud cover, so I hadn't really gotten to see much of the Enchantments. I was ready to change that and see all the beauty I've heard so much about. The forecast wasn't great but it did seem as though it'd hold out for us to climb Prusik on Monday, but was calling for 50% rain on Tuesday. I packed a bunch of my rain gear in preparation, since I did not want to be wet for three days of camping. We also decided to bring a big four person tent so that all six of us could hang out inside in the unfortunate case of rain.
Ben was hoping to tag McClellan on Sunday after we setup camp, but I wasn't super excited for a 7,000' day on day one of a three day trip. Eventually we opted to sleep in until 7am, grab breakfast in town, and then head up to setup camp. We ran into Jenny the night before and based on her suggestion, tried out Cafe Verona in town for breakfast. It was a good alternate to our usual Kristall's and we'll be going back. We parked along Icicle Creek road as the Snow Creek parking lot was overflowing, and we hit the trail a little after 10am. It was really hot in the sun and I was lagging on the initial steeper section of the trail, up all of the switchbacks.
Heading up the Snow Creek trail
During breaks everyone would try to spot all of the climbers up on Snow Creek wall as we passed by. Since it was going to be such a long hike with a heavy pack, I opted to wear my hiking boots instead of my approach shoes. I have had some issues in the past with them so I preemptively duct taped my heels. Unfortunately, not long after starting, they were already bugging me a little.
Snow Creek Wall
Aaron suggested stopping but I didn't know what more I could do, and I wanted to make it to camp before I assessed the damage. Soon we entered the trees along the creek and I was happy for a break from the sun. About half way up, around 3400', we stopped for lunch. I wanted to get a break from my pack for my shoulder and we took the opportunity to filter water and top off everyone's Nalgene. We started back out on the trail with me in front since I was the slowest. My heels were still bothering me but I was determined to make it to camp. At one point I finally felt a sharp pain in my heels and had to stop, I had to do something if I was going to make it the last couple miles.
Bridge along Snow Creek trail
Matt, Ben, and Chris went ahead to try and find us a campsite while Aaron and Sara stayed with me to help figure something out for my heels. I took the duct tape off and sure enough had a pretty big blister on each heel. I fished my first aid kit out of my pack and taped up my heels with some gauze, hoping to find some relief. Sara graciously traded me shoes, with the understanding that as soon as her heels started to bother her we'd switch back. There was no sense in two of us having bad blisters. We started up the trail and wearing Sara's approach shoes was a nice reprieve. We made a traverse across an open slope and entered back into the trees just before Nada Lake. The boots were starting to create hot spots for Sara so we stopped and switched shoes again. I was happy for the break I got. Aaron looked at my boots and proposed the idea that my Super Feet insoles were to blame. I've had them for a few years now and they are well worn. I wore them all year with my mountaineering boots and didn't have any issues, but I took them out of my boots and hiked without any sort of footbed/insole. It was a little uncomfortable but my heels didn't feel like they were getting any worse which was a step in the right direction. Unfortunately most of the damage had already been done so we moved at a snail's pace up to camp, as I had to take tiny steps uphill. The trail traversed around Nada Lake and eventually Snow Lake for what seemed like an eternity. I was more than ready to get to camp and sit for a while.
Nada Lake
Finally we spotted Sara's tent in the trees and found the guys. We dropped our stuff and everyone but me went for a refreshing dip in Snow Lake. We set up the big tent on the beach as that was the only spot big enough, and then some of the crew went to the stream nearby to filter water. I was ecstatic to have my flip flops on around camp. I took off the tape and gauze to let me heels air out a bit for the rest of the night.
Camp on the beach at Snow Lake
We decided to leave camp at 6am on Monday to head up to Prusik Peak. Ben and Chris had to head out on Monday to go to work on Tuesday, so they couldn't start too late. Aaron's foot was bothering him so we were only planning to do Prusik, while Sara and Matt discussed the possibility of tagging McClellan if time permitted. After some dinner, we all hung out in the big tent for a while before getting some sleep.
Snow Lake
I woke up about 5:15am on Monday and went out to get our food from the tree, so that I could eat breakfast while I started working on my heels. Aaron helped with a super tape job on both heels for me which worked out really well. We left camp at 6am and finished the traverse around Snow Lake. I was out front moving at my snails pace. My heels hurt when I first started, but I got into a rhythm and they felt a little better. I still couldn't really do inclines very well so I had to either take small steps, find steps along the side (i.e. root systems) or side step my way up. I stopped to take some ibuprofen while Ben, Chris, and Matt decided to go on ahead and meet us at the lakes. I ended up taking so long that Chris and Ben had to start climbing without us so they could still make it back to Seattle at a reasonable time. Aaron and Sara patiently stayed back with me as I did a lot of micro route finding in attempts to ease the pain.
Lake Viviane with Prusik Peak looming overhead, an amazing view to welcome us to the Enchantments
Finally we reached Lake Viviane and entered the upper basin of the Enchantments. I like to describe the Enchantments as a place of slabby rock, mysterious trees (larches), and lots of mushrooms, most of which met their demise at the tips of some trekking poles.
So much rock everywhere!
We had a great view of Prusik Peak over Lake Viviane, a good motivator half way through our hike. We took a short break to apply sunscreen and grab some food, and before too long, found Matt. He had been walking around taking pictures of everything, so he joined back up as we traversed through the lakes to reach Prusik Pass. There is so much rock up there, it's hard not to want to climb everything. I wasn't too happy about it though because slab rock meant I had to do a lot of side stepping. There were a few artificial steps made in the rocks for hikers which we found amusing.
Rebar steps up the slab near Lake Viviane
The system of lakes was amazing, all of the different levels and different waterfalls feeding them. It was interesting to see what Little Annapurna actually looks like, and to get a better view of McClellan Peak and Enchantments Peak. Everything looked a bit chossy so I guess we lucked out heading in on the snow.
[Left] McClellan Peak above Leprechaun Lake. [Right] Prusik Peak in the distance
Little Annapurna above Sprite Lake
We made our way around Lake Viviane, then Leprechaun Lake, onto Sprite Lake, and finally part way around Perfection Lake before finding the well signed trail to Prusik Peak. The guys grabbed the filter to get some water while Sara found some shade for us to snack in. The trail around the lakes was mostly over slabby rock so the trail through the meadow to Prusik Pass was a nice change in pace.
Trail to Prusik Pass
It was only a couple hundred feet up to the pass and then we were treated to a great view to the north of Shield Lake and Cannon Mountain, although we couldn't see the true summit until we got higher. There wasn't a completely clear trail up to the base of the ridge so we started heading up what we thought was the path of least resistance.
View to the north from Prusik Pass, Shield Lake below
Finding our way to the start of the West Ridge
We spotted Chris leading the crux slab and Ben yelled down to us a little. Matt mentioned dropping our stuff early but I didn't want to hike in my rock shoes with my blisters so we kept everything and made our way to the balanced rock near the start of the route. We dropped our packs there and geared up. My tape was holding up well so it was time to climb Prusik Peak, my main objective for the weekend.
View to the south from Prusik Pass. McClellan Peak on the left, Little Annapurna in the middle, and Enchantment Peaks on the right
Sara started out leading the first pitch. She trended more right but eventually found a good spot for a belay and brought Matt up. Aaron watched her climb from the balanced rock and picked a slightly different line that trended more left and then up towards the ridge. I followed up the nice, blocky terrain and was soon at the belay. I got the gear back from Aaron and started up the ridge.
[Left] Looking up the start of the West Ridge from the balance rock. [Right] After heading up the white crack, trend left
To finish pitch 1 head up dihedral and belay from slings
I reached the ridge just as Sara was finishing the slab. I placed my second piece, I think a #2, to protect the big step onto the boulder. It looked more difficult than it was. I followed the crack up and just after reaching the old welded cam, placed a #0.4. Knowing there wasn't really any protection on the slab, I wanted to get another piece in before I clipped the old piton at the base of the slab. Matt yelled down some tips and advice for me, mostly to grab the right side and look for good feet before committing. I grabbed the side and then went for it - my climbing style isn't really one where I plan things in advance, I generally just go and figure it out in the moment which sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. Luckily I sort of like the slabby/balancy climbing and trusted my feet on some little nubs. Eventually I left the comfort of the arete on the right to move out onto a few bigger knobs on the face and finally reached the thin seam, and eventually the top of the slab - almost done with pitch 2!
Looking down on pitch 2, from the belay on top of the boulder by the horn
Matt had set up a second belay on top of a boulder just before the traverse so I went right around the big boulder to access it. Matt was busy belaying Sara as she led the traverse so I plugged a #1 in and clipped in for some security while I waited. Finally I climbed up behind Matt, and once Sara was across the traverse, he anchored me in so I could belay Aaron up. Matt followed across the traverse and soon Aaron was at the slab. He made it up with no issues and made it to the belay where I handed him the couple pieces I had left. Matt had left his gear for the anchor so I told Aaron to give them our stuff when he got across the traverse. After some tips and guidance, Aaron made it across the traverse and I followed.
[Left] Sara leading across the traverse, our pitch 3. [Right] Looking back across the traverse, belayed from the top of that boulder just behind the horn at the top of pitch 2 {Photo courtesy of Matt}
Sara and Matt had waited to watch us on the traverse, so as soon as I was across Matt started up on our fourth pitch, just to move the belay up a little. Aaron wanted me to have the chance to lead the final pitch so he grabbed the gear back from me and led the fourth pitch as well. Just around the corner and up some blocky terrain I found the crew on a huge ledge. Sara was just starting up the corner on the final pitch and it looked challenging.
[Left] Heading up blocky terrain to the large ledge to move the belay into a better position for the final pitch to the top. [Right*] Top of pitch 4 and most of pitch 5 up to the summit. Pitch 5 starts up a corner (we did the left one, not the right 5.8 finger crack) to another ledge which leads you to the hand traverse up the flake to another ledge. A couple moves above that brings you to the chimneys up the summit block
I checked out Cannon Mountain while I waited and noticed the true summit, and we talked about the best route up it. Clearly it wasn't in the cards for me that weekend. Sara set up an anchor and Matt started up, with me not far behind. The first step into the corner was a bit tall and as I was on my tip toes trying to figure it out, I had to stop as my heels were screaming. Overall they hadn't been too bad during the climb, or I was too focused to notice the screaming. I figured out the move and went up, placing a #0.4 lower and a #1 higher in the crack. After a mantle out of the corner, I walked across a nice ledge to a fun flake. I got some pictures of Matt on it and then climbed up myself. I placed a #2 in the first part so I could get a piece in, but the rest of the flake was too wide to get any gear in so I ran it out. Luckily it's a huge jug so it wasn't too bad. Once atop the flake I found a crack at my feet for a #0.75. I climbed up one more little section to get to Sara and Matt at her anchor. The final section to the summit was a chimney, and there were two to choose from. The one on the left was long and narrow but looked easy, the one on the right looked flarey. With permission to climb past them, and a bunch of help in pulling up the rope (I couldn't have done it without their help with the rope drag) I decided to squeeze my way down the narrow chimney on the left. I didn't place any gear but if I fell I just wedged myself in farther. I scraped around with my feet several times but finally I reached the end and made it to the summit!
Heading up the corner for the start of pitch 5 {Photo courtesy of Matt}
[Left] Matt on the flake on pitch 5. [Right] Matt belaying Sara up the final chimney to the summit
Heading through the squeeze chimney (the left one) to reach the summit {Photo courtesy of Matt}
I slung a pinch point and another horn and brought Aaron up. Meanwhile, Matt climbed to the top of the chimney near the opening instead of traversing inside of it like I did, and set up a little anchor near me to bring Sara in. Aaron made it up to the chimney but didn't think he'd fit through it so he climbed it like Matt did. The big rock on top actually has an inch or two of space at the one end so he could flick the rope through it. The summit was pretty nice, complete with a little rock wall.
Summit view of the Enchantments.
Lakes: Snow Lake, Temple Lake, Lake Viviane.
Peaks: McClellan Peak, Little Annapurna, Enchantment Peaks, and Cannon Mountain
Aaron and I on the summit of Prusik Peak
We found the bolts and tat for the first rappel station so after a couple of quick summit photos, Matt started down the first of three double rope rappels. Aaron was next, followed by Sara, and I brought up the rear.
[Left] Sara on the second of three double rope rappels. Have to love the weight of a full rope below you. [Right] Looking up from the anchor at the top of the second rappel {Photo courtesy of Matt}
There was a little crack on the first rappel that I stayed wide right of (climbers right) to hopefully avoid any stuck ropes. It worked and the guys had a clean pull to set up the second rappel. The third rappel had another interesting crack/ledge feature so when I went last I rappelled just below it, then shimmied the rope through my ATC so I could get the knot below the crack/ledge to ensure a clean pull. Once at the bottom we traversed back to the balance rock and our stuff. We successfully climbed Prusik Peak, another mountain to check off of my to-do list! Now to get back to camp. It was close to 4pm so Sara and Matt gave up on McClellan and we took a quick break to eat before heading down. My heels had made the approach a lot longer than we expected, and we figured it'd take a while to get back to camp so we'd be racing the sun to get back by 8pm.
Prusik Peak
We started down about 4:20pm and took a slightly different way down from Prusik Pass that seemed more direct to reach the trail around the lakes. Without the Super Feet in my boots, I slid around a bunch more and my toes weren't super happy. By the end of the weekend, in addition to the blisters on my heels, I added another four on the tips of my toes. I did a lot more side stepping down the slab and we made it back to the trail down from Lake Viviane.
Found a few goats as we neared Lake Viviane
Sara and Matt went on ahead while Aaron stayed with me at my slow pace. We took a couple breaks to rest both of our feet. We made it back down to Snow Lake and were ecstatic to almost be back to camp after a long day. There were still a few tents set up along the trail, apparently we weren't the only ones extending the long weekend. The sun was setting over the lake as we made it back to camp, a couple minutes before 8pm. Aaron and Matt went to filter water as I got the stove going. I brought a dehydrated meal for the second night and was looking forward to some warm food. I ate all of my rice and chicken and had one of my candy bars, apparently I had worked up an appetite during our 14 hour day. With the rain in the forecast for Tuesday and Aaron and I being gimp and gimper with our feet, we decided to sleep in and head back to the cars in the morning instead of trying any of the walk-ups.
Aaron on the dam between upper and lower Snow Lake on the hike out
We woke up about 7am and were on the trail at 8:15am. I was trailing a ways behind the crew again with my feet, so when they stopped at Nada Lake I kept going, figuring I'd get a bit of a head start so they wouldn't have to wait for me as much. They all caught back up and we kept up a good pace on the way down. My feet were not only sore from the numerous blisters I had, but just the pounding in general. I had a bit less padding than I was used to. I also knew I only had so much time before my shoulder would start bugging me so I wanted to keep going as much as possible.
Snow Creek along the trail
We made it back out of the trees and traversed around to the switchback part of the trail - we were practically on the home stretch of the 8+ mile hike out that day. We met a family of goats so Matt did a great job herding them away from us on the trail, although we still cut a switchback to get some distance between us and them. My feet and shoulder were really hurting so everyone went on ahead of me with the intention of taking a dip in the river near the trailhead. I hobbled my way back to the car and was glad to get my shoes and pack off, and sit for a while. After everyone had changed and cleaned up a bit, we stopped in town for some late lunch with a slightly older crowd than we're used to seeing there, then we made it back to Seattle in time for the evening commute. It was a great weekend in the Enchantments with friends to tick Prusik Peak off my list. The West Ridge was a lot of fun, a more sustained alpine 5.7 with a bit of exposure. The Enchantments lived up to the hype and I'm looking forward to heading back in another time, probably via the shorter Aasgard Pass approach and hopefully sans blisters.
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Hike into the Enchantments via the Snow Lake trail. Climbed Prusik Peak via the West Ridge (5.7)
Start of the hike in along the Snow Creek trail. Starting elevation was about 1400'
Trail around Nada Lake
Trail around Snow Lake. Campsite near the west end, then we headed up into the upper basin of the Enchantments on Monday
Hike through the Enchantment Basin with all of its lakes to reach Prusik Peak
West Ridge of Prusik Peak. I left my GPS at the base of the route so no track up the peak
Prusik Peak - West Ridge Climbing Topo
*Beta photos made using BetaCreator