Tieton Climbing and Rafting 9.15 - 9.16.12

I decided I wanted to go on one rafting trip this year, and Tieton sounded like a good option. It's warmer, the river is fast, and there's climbing nearby. Wenatchee is one of my other usual trips but not this year. I had climbing planned every weekend during June when BEWET typically runs it, besides the weather ended up being less than ideal during June this year. I sent out the information and found a group of 7 to head down - Aaron, Sara, Alicia, Kevin, Lindsey, Fedya, and myself.

View from Royal Columns area at Tieton

We planned to climb on Saturday and raft on Sunday, like we had done the previous year. Fortunately this year the forecast seemed a bit more reasonable with a high around 80 degrees, although it'd still be warm. After discussing options, we decided to head down Saturday at 7AM. We were taking I-90 out and Kevin let us know the pass was to be closed for rock blasting right when we were hoping to pass through. Instead we decided to take a leisurely breakfast at the North Bend Starbucks followed by some grocery shopping for the weekend. The blasting period was suppose to end at 8:30AM and we hit the pass after our extra long stop a little after 8:40AM. Traffic was moving but very slowly. Finally things settled down about Cle Elum and before long we were mesmerized by the huge billows of smoke north of us from the wildfires that had started the previous weekend, sparked from lightning. I hadn't really thought about how they might affect us but they seemed to be farther north so other than a hazy view, no biggie. We got to the parking lot across from the Royal Columns about 11AM and grabbed our gear. We could see some people on the rock already, and there were several cars parked along the road. We crossed to the bridge and found some of the decking missing, with a sign directing us down the road to another mile marker for access to the rock. We silently looked at each other and noticed another couple climbers approaching so we waited to see what they did. Without hesitation they ducked under the sign, walked across the supports below the deck, and hopped back onto the proper bridge deck to cross. Well that seemed easy enough, so we quickly followed.

There was a large group in the area we climbed last year, so we dropped our stuff instead by Entrance Exam, the 5.7 chimney. There was a group next to it with one rope up. Aaron grabbed his book and discussed the nearby routes - all 5.9 or harder except for a sketchy looking 5.6 that Alicia, Sara, nor I were particularly excited about leading. The group was nice and offered to let us use their rope on X Factor (5.8) to get to the top and walk over to drop a rope on some routes. Sara got elected to that duty while Aaron reluctantly lead Entrance Exam (5.7) again for us.

Fedya belaying Sara up X Factor (5.8) on the left, while I belay Aaron as he leads Entrance Exam (5.7) on the right

Fedya belayed Sara up and across as she dropped his rope on Developing Arms (5.9) and Orange Sunshine (5.10b). I belayed Aaron up Entrance Exam, while Alicia followed and cleaned. Fedya took his turn up Developing Arms (5.9) to set another top rope on some routes just to the left - Cross-Eyed and Painless (5.9) and Columns Holiday (5.10c).

Sara belaying Fedya up Developing Arms (5.9). To his right in the finger crack Orange Sunshine (5.10b). To his left, is Columns Holiday (5.10c) and the crack left of that is Cross-eyed and Painless (5.9)

I was a bit battered and bruised from the past week of climbing and running, so I decided to test my body on Entrance Exam first. Other than avoiding some high steps, I seemed good to go. The sun was out and it was warm with a lot of people filtering in. The couple guys we followed across the bridge were waiting for a climbing meetup group so they decided to try the 5.9 sport route next to us. I sat in the shade nearby, helping belay people up the top ropes. Finally I got on Orange Sunshine (5.10b) myself, a long finger crack. The group that had initially let us use their ropes on X Factor were giving Columns HOliday (5.10c) a go too. That lead to some interesting lowering as the fall line directly crossed over the bottom of Developing Arms/Orange Sunshine, so we all got to know each other well. Orange Sunshine was a fun, challenging climb that definitely pumped me out. It had small ledges for feet outside the crack, but it was mostly vertical. After taking several times I made it to the top and lowered back down for some bagel sandwich lunch. More people filtered in so it was a free for all on the ropes. Aaron decided he wanted to lead Jam Exam (5.9), a hand crack around the corner to the right a bit. He did a great job and Sara followed while I belayed. It was a bit wide and from what I hear, a very challenging route. Unfortunately rope drag made belaying tricky as well so I had fun hopping all around when Sara let me know there was a bunch of slack.

Fedya belaying Aaron on his lead of Jam Exam (5.9)

Finally we decided it was time to head to the campground, so we started taking down the top ropes via an elaborate scheme to get to all the anchors. I had the duty of getting the last rope and went up Developing Arms (5.9), a corner crack. I definitely need to develop my arms more, that was tough! I took several times and was pretty pumped by the end. Finally, a few fist jams lead me over the top to reach the anchor to the left, and my anchor. I cleaned that, rappelled down, and we packed up to head to the campground.

We were stopped along highway 12 on the way, to wait for a pace car. I didn't realize there was a wildfire along highway 12 as well, literally right by the road way. The pace car took us in one lane past the blaze as Aaron spotted firefighters and flames. We got to the campground before the afternoon river run crew returned. We set up our tents in about the same place as last year, and grabbed snacks out. After helping move the grill and a table around, we gathered near the potluck area to continue hanging out and eating the delicious snacks everyone brought, and figuring out tricky backpack puzzles. Fires were banned, for obvious reasons, so Aaron and Sara grabbed their lanterns to light up the circle of chairs. After most of the food was eaten, we decided to retire a bit early and get a good night's sleep before rafting on Sunday. We woke up about 8AM on Sunday, broke down camp, and got ready. We left about 8:55AM and drove a few miles west on highway 12 to the put in, luckily marked by the BEWET orange cone since I've driven by the little dirt driveway too many times. We got our lifejackets and helmets, signed the waivers, and got our boat assignments. Aaron, Alicia, Fedya, and I were with Melissa, while sara, Kevin, and Lindsey were with Levi - it was going to be a fun day on the river.

The right side of Melissa's boat: Tanya, Fedya, and Aaron

The left side of Melissa's boat: Myself, Alicia, and Jeff

Once the driving situation got figured out, the shuttle crew left. My car was so full from the car camping and climbing equipment that we couldn't fit more people, so I just left it at the put in. Once the drivers were back, we had went through the safety talk and put in a little after 11AM. Melissa's boat was first in and we were soon making our way down the river. I was amazed at how much smoke there was. Sara said it was really bad when they drove by for the car shuttle. I didn't expect a campfire like atmosphere while paddling down the river. When we passed close by the road, we could see a stump on fire still and various firefighters nearby. Luckily we passed through the smoke just in time for the big rapids and dam.

Smoke from the wildfire (and bits of fire) along highway 12 as we paddled by

We made it down without anyone going swimming! Besides a snafu at takeout with Levi's boat deciding they wanted to stay on the river a bit longer, the trip went really well. We broke down the boats, got into some dry clothes, and went back to the cars for some more snacks and drinks. The last important decision of the weekend was made - where we were stopping for dinner. We decided on Wing Central Roadhouse Grill in Ellensburg. After some delicious food, and a stop at DQ in Bellevue, we arrived home after a fun weekend on the rock and river.

Tracy, Sara, and Kevin in Levi's boat. Lindsey was hidden in the back on the left side of the boat