BOEALPS President's Climb 2012 - Squamish 9.7 - 9.9.12

For the 2012 BOEALPS President's climb, Matt decided to head back up to Squamish. I only had a day in up there this year so I was looking forward to heading back. In true Squamish form, we had gotten rained out on Sunday when we were there for BRC in July. That seems to be how things work when I'm there, the rain always comes on Sunday - sometimes even Saturday. Prior to this trip, I had been up to Squamish four other weekends, only getting to climb 4 of those 8 days - and two of those days were my second time ever climbing outside. Last year we got rained out completely on our April trip. Lately I've been trying to get on the classic routes on the Apron so I had only ever climbed on the Apron, Shannon Falls, Ravens Castle at the top of Big Chief (don't do it), and Neat and Cool at Smoke Bluffs. I was looking forward to checking the last Apron multipitch route I wanted to get done this year off my list, and finally exploring Smoke Bluffs beyond Neat and Cool. That last Apron climb is the ever popular Diedre (5.8) so Aaron and I decided to take off work on Friday and head up to get on it. We weren't sure exactly what the rest of the weekend would hold, but one of those days Aaron was planning on taking me around Smoke Bluffs to some of the other areas to help me expand my climbing horizons. We left Seattle about 9am on Friday with a couple stops for breakfast and gas along the way. We got to the parking lot about 1pm and saw a couple groups up on Diedre, with one on Rambles.

Aaron had done Rambles (5.8) one of his last trips up with Matt and liked it, and I thought it looked fun so we decided to start on that to get to Diedre. They had linked the first and second pitch together, and then the third and fourth pitch together and thought that worked well, so we planned to do the same. We had heard although the third pitch on Diedre is the crux, some guys think the fourth pitch is harder because it's thinner. I used that information to decide I'd take the even numbered pitches and let Aaron lead the odd numbered pitches. Following that plan, Aaron started up Rambles first.

First pitch on Rambles, normal anchor is at the tree on the left but Aaron continued past it to the second anchor

He placed a few pieces of gear, bypassing the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch near the tree, and continued up the seam towards the second anchor. There were a couple bolts on these first two pitches to help protect the slab moves.

The second pitch on the Rambles follows this traversing crack

As I was belaying Aaron, I noticed some boots nearby, one of them with a biner and some gear marking tape. I thought it might be Joe and Alex's, and before long I saw Joe rappelling back down the route. By time I had followed Aaron up to his anchor, Joe was there and Alex was starting the first rappel down. I grabbed the slings from Aaron and a few pieces of gear. He didn't think I needed any gear, and Alex had only placed one piece, but I wanted them anyways. I didn't mind the extra weight and rather have gear in case I needed it. The proper third pitch is a 5.7 with 5 bolts. I headed up the slab clipping away, clipping the anchor, and made it to the crux of the proper fourth pitch with the flake. I looked at the flake a bit to decide what I wanted to do. I got my hands up high, and not knowing exactly where to head next, hung low on my arms. I remembered reading some beta to look far left. I worked across to the left a bit until I could reach a nice hold with my foot, then worked my way up the flake. I contemplated putting a piece in or just going for the anchor, and finally decided to just head to the anchor. It was easy climbing although a fall would mean decking on the rock below. I was almost done setting up the anchor when Aaron yelled up, suggesting I continue on to the trees for a less awkward belay. That sounded good to me so I clipped the anchor and made a few more moves up to the trees where I brought Aaron up. As I was finishing up the climb I noticed my shoulder was all bloody. I had no idea what from.

Bloody shoulder after Rambles, no idea how I managed that

We did the incredibly short hike to the start of Diedre and then I decided I should probably do something about my shoulder. It had stopped bleeding, but in the process of washing it up a bit, it started again and wouldn't quit. I had some climbers tape with me because of a blister on my toe, so I grabbed that and awkwardly taped my shoulder a bit. The tape wasn't sticking well, and trying to get it to stick on my shoulder which I'm constantly moving around while climbing, was challenging to say the least. Eventually the bleeding stopped a few pitches up and I ripped the tape off. After deciding to coninue up despite the mysterious bleeding shoulder, Aaron flaked the rope back out (while I was trying to mend myself) and got ready to lead out.

Aaron made quick work of the start, heading up the slab to the tree, slinging that, and then carefully picking his way up the slab and cracks around the slippery, worn rock patches.

Aaron's lead up the first part of the first pitch on Diedre

The second part of the first pitch on Diedre, you can see all the patches of slippery rock

By time we started Diedre we couldn't see anyone on route, nor anyone on any of the routes nearby. It was awesome to have such a popular route to ourselves. No waiting for anyone, and no feeling rushed. I followed Aaron up, learning again how to trust my feet on the Apron slab which was a good thing since I got to lead the traverse second pitch on the slab.

Aaron following on the second pitch of Diedre

I made my way up and slowly inched over to the crack before crossing the rest of the way. Again I had grabbed a little bit of gear just in case I could put anything in, but I just went all the way to the anchor. The anchor was a bit awkward but I finally got my clove hitch adjusted so I could comfortably belay from the little ledge just below.

Great view of the sound from the anchor at the end of the second pitch

Aaron followed over quickly, took all the gear, and we took a look at the rotue. The third pitch is the first up the corner. He spotted the step over and tried to figure out some strategies for handling it. We also spotted the next anchor. Aaron started off, quickly working his way up the left corner and easily moving past the step over.

Aaron's lead up the third pitch of Diedre, our first pitch up the corner

I followed, taking my time and thinking ahead to my lead on the next pitch, looking at stances and getting used to taking gear out of the crack. I had a big blister on the big toe of my right foot, so I was also trying to feel out how that felt before I started leading. Everything seemed to be going ok, I had worn a sock to help offer some extra protection. I took the gear from Aaron and started up. I sewed up the fourth pitch very well, placing lots of small gear, especially my favorite - nuts. I finally spotted the anchor, making sure I'd have enough slings to get me there, and continued up. I reached the trusty rusty and decided to clip it before heading out a little right to reach the anchor. Aaron was soon following, glad to reach the anchor and get a break from the constant left corner climbing. They're definitely right when they talk about the calf cramps!

Aaron following the fourth pitch on Diedre

He took the gear back from me and headed up the fifth pitch. He placed a few pieces, running it out as the angle was lessening. He reached the next anchor and brought me up.

Aaron's lead on the fifth pitch of Diedre

The sixth pitch is described as runout and very thin. I grabbed all the small gear, including Aaron's C3s, and headed up. Before I left the anchor, I checked out the very small crack with a few pockets and thought about placing gear. Luckily the angle was pretty easy so I could run up the slab. I did manage to place two mastercams in small finger pockets before reaching the exit move- I ran that thing out like a champ. The moves to get up to the boulder were a bit more committing (mostly because my last piece was way below). I was glad to get a hand in the crack, find the bomber #2 pocket, and set about trying to figure out the exit move. I remembered hearing about the tree and spotted the well chalked and used root hanging down. I made my way up, jamming the right side of my body against the boulder, used the root to help steady myself, and pulled over the ledge. I slung a tree and brought Aaron up. He quickly followed and made the exit move as well. Starting off on the fifth pitch I had finally seen a group at the start of Diedre. It was definitely a quiet day on the Apron! We walked across the Broadway Ledge and took the slab descent, my new preferred way. I decided I was tired enough to skip the marathon/half marathon training run for the day, so instead we checked into the hotel for the weekend, showered (amazing), and then headed off in search of The Nest, a new restaurant for us to try that Aaron had heard good things about. All I can say is that it was delicious and we'll definitely be heading back on future trips to Squamish.

Sara and Matt were heading up late after Matt got off work on Friday, so after some planning shenanigans, Aaron got a call sometime after 1am and let them into the hotel. After a short night, we woke up and went to the White Spot for breakfast to meet up with the others up in Squamish for the weekend. After much more debate, we decided we'd head to Smoke Bluffs for the day instead of the Apron. The guys had thought about climbing Snake (5.9) and Squamish Butt Face (5.9), but Smoke Bluffs won out in the end. There was a major cycling race from Vancouver to Whistler happening that day, so we couldn't cross 99 to get to Smoke Bluffs. We parked the cars and started the hike over, fortunately it's not too far. We found Jeff sitting by the parking lot, and eventually got a hold of Justin and Fedya. First up, we went to Pixie Corner. Sara lost out on the not it game and got elected to lead Davy Jones' Locker (5.7) while Aaron challenged White Rabbit (5.10b).

Fedya belaying Sara on her lead on Davy Jones' Locker (5.7)

Both lead the routes as the rest of us took turns top roping. Jeff also put up Pixie Corner (5.8). Davy Jones' Locker was a bit of a stout 5.7. white Rabbit was a small, tiring finger crack - luckily it wasn't any longer! Pixie Corner was a fun corner route as well, with the bulge/roof proving an interesting problem to get past. Eventually I put my feet up on the left and did a lie back to get up it. The guys made it look like just another easy step heading up - tall people.

Jeff belaying Justin while he cleans Pixie Corner (5.8). He's just below the crux bulge

Sara moved the rope from Pixie Corner over to Trixie (5.10a), another fun, thin finger crack.

Sara about to get in the finger crack on Trixie (5.10a)

After having run on those routes, we decided to head to Octopus' Garden. We were hoping that many had not found their way over to Smoke Bluffs due to the race so it'd be a little quieter at the popular area. We showed up to find a couple groups that were soon on their way. The guys talked Jeff into leading Edible Pantie (5.7), that has a 5.9 boulder start, while Matt lead Octopus' Garden in the Shade (5.8), and Aaron lead Pipe Dream (5.8). They all successfully put up the routes and soon we were all taking turns on top rope again. Thinking I might want to lead Edible Panties in the future, I grabbed my nuts to see if I could protect the first move. I wedged in my red nut (the others liked the gold), and it seemed to hold although it looked ready to pop out at any moment. It took me a few tries (and much laughter from sara as she belayed me) before I pulled over the bulge and got myself into the nice hand crack to the top.

Jeff leading Edible Panties (5.7), just above the crux bouldery 5.9 start

Next I got on Octopus' Garden in the Shade. After making it past the flake, it was also a nice hand crack. I sure was getting lots of time to work on my crack technique! The routes here were much longer than Pixie Corner, but a lot of fun too.

Matt leading Octopus' Garden in the Shade (5.8)

For my final route there, I got on Pipe Dream as Matt lead Call Any Vegetable (5.8), to the left of Edible Panties. Pipe Dream had a tricky move to the tree in the wide crack, and above that I got to wrestle the off width. I made it up but not without my share of bruises.

Justin heading up Pipe Dream (5.8)

For our final stop of the day, we went to Fern Gully to get Justin his first trad lead! Once again, Jeff got talked into leading Rampage (5.9). It's got another 5.9 start that leads to a 5.7 hand crack. The start is very thin and Jeff did a great job of calming himself down and working past it. It was certainly a fun route to top rope!

Jeff leading Rampage (5.9), almost to the top

Justin did great on his first lead [Fern Gully (5.4)], and Fedya had fun playing on Tools of Moss Desctruction, the 5.11b to the left of Rampage.

Justin on his first trad lead on Fern Gully (5.4)

Fedya playing on Tools of Moss Desctruction (5.11b)

Matt and Sara had volunteered to head down early and go get the cars to meet us in the Smoke Bluffs parking lot, so after everyone climbed at Fern Gully we headed down. A few minutes after we got to the parking lot, the cars arrived with beer and a fritos, mmmm. After hanging out a bit, we went back to the hotel to park, and walk to the brew pub for dinner with everyone. Dinner was delicious and it was fun to hear of everyone's adventures that day.

Sunday we woke up to a less than stellar weather forecast. I figured my curse was continuing. We went to White spot for breakfast again and headed for the Smoke Bluffs, adding a few more to our cragging group - Luke, Sasha, and Allen. Most of the group set off for Ronin's Corner while Aaron, Sara, Matt, and I went to Penny Lane. As we geared up for the first leads, it started raining a bit. I got some evil looks but luckily it passed, just leaving lots of clouds for the day. Aaron lead Quarryman (5.8) while Matt lead Clandestine Affair (5.9). I followed Aaron up Quarryman, past the interesting bouldery start and into the nice crack. The corner was a bit awkward to pull around but it was a fun route. Sara was a bit worried about getting pulled into the roof if Matt fell on the hand traverse, so Aaron anchored himself to Sara to add a bit of extra weight. Matt did great though and finished the lead cleanly. After watching Sara clean the route, I was up. Aaron had gone back to Ronin's Corner to grab anyone that wanted to get on these routes too, so Jeff, Sasha, and Luke came over. After getting passed the bouldery start again, I managed to work past the step down on the ledge. I cleaned the crack out a bit which I think really helped since I could get a better grip, then I stepped down onto the ledge and unclipped the piece. The crack was good and my feet were a bit sore from jamming the day before. The hand traverse was interesting but kind of fun. I think I was actually a good height to stay low on my arms and smear with my feet. I reached the bomber hold at the corner and continued up. Sasha decided he wanted to try the direct start to Clandestine Affair (5.10d) and eventually figured out the move to pull past the roof - very impressive! After everyone had taken their turns on those routes, we joined the group at Ronin's Corner. I got on Magical Child (5.8) a fun corner crack that I really enjoyed, and then smeared/got pulled up Skydancing (5.10c). Luckily Aaron was a good sport and gave me a very friendly belay, half pulled me up a few moves when I requested. Justin got in another lead and we packed up to head somewhere new. Luke, Justin, and Fedya went back to Penny Lane to get on Quarryman, while the rest of us headed down. Sara, Jeff, and Allen stopped at Kangaroo Corner (5.11a), a thin corner crack while Matt, Aaron, Sasha and I continued on. I wanted to get on Flying Circus (5.10a) at Neat and Cool but it was really busy so we went to Mosquito Area. Mosquito was also busy so Matt decided to try Sphinx'ter Quits (5.8), a mix of sport and trad.

Matt leading Sphinx'ter Quits (5.8)

Matt clipped the first bolt and following that line up, tried to make it up to the next ledge. On his second try, he fell, unfortunately catching his foot on the rope, and hit the rock below. Unphased, and luckily uninjured, he went a bit right to gain the first ledge and lead the rest of the route without difficulty. The group on Mosquito agreed to trail one of our ropes up S-M's Delight (5.10b), a thin finger crack when they were done so we could play on that. I went back to the crew at Kangaroo Corner to find another group on that and Allen playing on There You Go Andy (5.12c).

Allen playing on There You Go Andy (5.12c)

They soon took the rope down and joined us at Mosquito. I got on Sphinx'ter Quits and really enjoyed it. It was mantling and face climbing, a ncie break from crack climbing which I had been doing all weekend. There were little ledges in all the right places. I also started way right and stemmed a bit in the corner to reach the first ledge.

Sara taking a turn on S-M's Delight (5.10b)

After that, I took my turn on S-M's Delight and scratched my way up the finger crack. It was a great challenge to end my weekend on. As people started filtering down the path, we grabbed them and got one group picture before the headed out.

The group in Squamish for President's Climb

The rain started just as we were packing up about 4:30. I somehow got to climb a Sunday in Squamish - amazing. It was a great weekend of climbing in Squamish. I got a bunch of crack climbing in at places other than Neat and Cool at Smoke Bluffs, checked Diedre off my list, and had fun hanging out with everyone!