Tree Route 4.21.12
After getting almost 12 hours of sleep, I woke up about 7:45AM and slowly got ready for Saturday’s adventure. Sara and I planned to do the link-up of Tree Route (5.6) and Stump Route (5.6) at 8-mile.
View from my tent when I woke up
Aaron had found us an awesome trip report for beta, especially the topo maps. It was the illustration of the leg eating off width that really got us excited for the route. We left sometime around 9:30AM I’m guessing from our group site at the Bridge Creek campground. After looking at the Leavenworth guide book, we took off towards the 8-mile campground just down the road. I pulled over and after looking at where we thought the trail should be with some parking areas identified, we turned around and drove down the road a bit more to a larger rock. We found a couple trails on the correct side of the road so we figured we were in the right area. We took a little bit of time gearing up for the day.
Sara getting her rack ready
We both brought little packs with some food, water, our new favorite little radios, and other gear for the long day of climbing. Each route was rated a 5.6 and had 3 pitches. We started up the trail and soon crested a hill next to a house – wrong way. We looked up at the crags on the hillside and made a guess at where the lower 8-mile crag was.
We saw a few deer during our wandering
We had forgotten the book in the car but luckily I had my beta sheet with me. On it was a picture of the Lower 8-mile crag from climbers left, so we started walking to the left side of the crags. After bushwhacking and meandering back and forth, we realized we had no idea where the rock was. Nothing looked familiar and we were still practically in the backyard of the house. Finally we decided to head back to the car and check out the book again.
After realizing we weren’t in the right area we started back down to the road
After looking at the broader map that included other areas near 8-mile we realized we needed to be closer to the campground. As we drove we spotted the bleached off-width crack at the top of the Tree Route – we finally found our crag! Now to find a trail to get us there. We parked back where we had pulled off initially that morning and hiked up the trail a little. After figuring out what direction the Lower 8-mile crag was, we grabbed our stuff and started the second bushwhacking adventure of the day. The Mountaineers were in the area teaching their basic scrambling class so we found several of their navigational steaks along the way. We passed some boulderers heading back to the road, but saw no clear trail. At one point there was a high rock so we beached ourselves on top to get over that. I narrowly missed kicking Sara in the head as I swung my foot around as she was trying to help. We continued making our way up through all the brush with the start of the Tree Route in view.
View of the Lower 8-Mile Crag from our bushwhacking trail, we could just see the bleached off-width crack at the upper left of the crag. We still had to make our way to the left to get to the start
We finally reached our destination just after noon – much later than we had hoped but we didn’t anticipate the navigational adventure we had that morning. We sat for a few minutes to drink some water and we each had a Gu to help replace some energy spent while wandering the nearby hillsides.
Sara grabbing some water before gearing up for the climb
We still had not decided who would be leading what pitches. I had followed Aaron up a short 5.8 off-width last year at Index and did not have fond memories, so Sara volunteered to take that pitch which left me the first pitch. Those two were both 5.6, while the second pitch was a low 5.wander pitch.
Start of the Tree Route, up the ramp with the wide crack on the right
There was a slabby ramp up next to the bolted route, although I didn’t like the looks of it per say so I scouted around to find a different start. Sara thought I’d be fine so I geared up and started up the ramp with a large crack on the right to use as an undercling. The crack was huge and it was at my feet so it was a bit hard to place gear. I placed one piece right before a wet section of the rock and finally psyched myself up to continue on. I was excited to reach the corner, the top of the ramp, and found myself on a ledge with a tiny bush and huge crack. I left most of the big gear with Sara, but took my new #4. Unfortunately the crack was too large for that so I started up the next little ramp to reach the corner system. There was nothing to protect there so I downclimbed to the little ledge to try and find something. With no other options I finally slung the bush, telling Sara I didn’t think it’d do anything but it helped my psyche.
The bush I slung that really had no hope of catching me if I did fall but there were no other options and I was a bit run out so it helped my pschye
I started up the ramp again and tried to figure out how to cross the slab to get up to the corner system. I was able to just reach over and place a #1. After checking it out to make sure it’d catch me, I stepped across and worked my way into the corner.
The little ramp leading from the ledge to the chimney. We took the corner though so I had to step over across the slab to reach the corner system on the right. I plugged a #1 in to protect the move
The rightward corner offered more cracks to place gear but it was a bit awkward. The beta said to stay away from the chimney like thing so I did which I believe was the right call. The corner had a few stout moves but finally I reached the easier section of blocky rock with ledges intermittently spaced.
The first pitch turned into blocky rock with ledges and nice cracks to protect with
I was down to three slings so I figured it was about time to find a place to build an anchor and bring Sara up. There was suppose to be a rap station at the top of the pitch but wasn’t sure I’d make it that far. I placed a nut and headed up another few blocky steps to a nice big ledge – complete with bolts! I radioed down to Sara that they were in sight so she knew I was almost done. I set up an anchor on the bolts and started hauling up the rope to get Sara on belay. She started up, laughing at my bush I slung (it wouldn’t have done anything) and soon appeared a few moves below the ledge. Rope drag was pretty bad so she had to radio to me a couple times during her climb.
Sara at the top of the first pitch, anchored into the bolts
We found the woman lying on her back as described in the beta
Great day to be on the side of some rock
Sara decided to take the second pitch as a warm up before her off-width challenge. She angled up and slightly climbers left until she was on a nice ledge right below the crack that would lead us up to a corner, and then to the off-width.
Sara leading the second pitch, 5.wander
Sara generally trended left and up
There were a couple legit slab moves in the second pitch but overall pretty easy. Sara was able to lead the pitch by placing her two #2’s, slinging a couple natural anchors, and clipping a nut welded in the rock near the start of the pitch.
One of the two #2’s Sara placed on the second pitch, to help protect the slab moves
I followed up and was soon on the ledge big enough to build a house (as identified on our topo map per the beta). Sara had built a gear anchor in the crack there using small gear since she knew she’d need all of the big stuff for the off-width.
Found Sara at the top of the second pitch on the ledge big enough to build a house
Gear anchor Sara built at the top of the second pitch
Sara about to start leading the third and final pitch of Tree Route
Sara started up the crack system and soon made her way to the corner. She protected it well and was soon past the corner and out of sight.
Sara’s lead up the initial crack to the corner on the third pitch
She radioed down when she reached the off-width crack, with a #4 and #5 left. We had borrowed some big gear from Robert for the climb – a couple #4’s and a #5. Thank goodness for those! Sara finally radioed down that she was looking for a good spot to build an anchor – she made it through the leg eating off-width! Now it was my turn to follow. After breaking down her gear anchor I started up to the corner. It had a handy little flake to provide a great jug to move up past the corner. I then came to a rather wide, very low angled crack that Sara protected with a couple #4’s. After a slung rock, I arrived at the off-width.
Just about to the off-width crack to end the third pitch
Yup, definitely off-width
The bottom portion was wide enough for me to fit inside. After a step up I was in the off-width. It was too wide to get a foot or leg jam. I was radioing to Sara but she peeked her head over the side to chat with me as I very gracefully (not) made my way up the off-width.
Sara belaying me up the third and final pitch, through the off-width
Sara had placed her #4 towards the start of it and the #5 about half way up. I humped my way up the crack with my right leg in and used the pry apart method with my hands – luckily I was just following. I finally emerged from the off-width crack and we were excited to have conquered the Tree Route.
Another look at the off-width from above
It was a bit later in the afternoon and having felt challenged on the Tree Route, we decided not to go find the Stump Route and instead take a break at the top of the Lower 8-Mile crag. I was pretty hungry before starting the second pitch so I chowed down my bagel sandwich on my shady rock while Sara enjoyed the sun on a nearby rock.
Sara enjoying the sun while relaxing after the Tree Route
Enjoying my bagel sandwich in the shade with my shoes kicked off
After relaxing a bit we packed up to take on the final part of our adventure that day – finding our way down. The beta said to head left when facing the road so we followed that. There was a slight trail we found. We ended up at some gullies that required a bit of down-climbing. After trying the one on the right, we went back to the one on the left that seemed more promising. I often side slipped down the dirt on the hillside but we soon were back in the trees and almost home free. We made it back to the car after a successful and fun day of climbing. We drove down the road to find the boys and spotted their truck at R&D. We pulled chairs out of the back and some food, and hung out watching everyone finish the route and come down. Overall another great day of climbing in Leavenworth!