Joshua Tree Climbing Trip 3.9 - 3.11.12

The thing that helps people in the northern states endure a long, cold, wet winter is often times a getaway to somewhere warm and sunny. Enter: Trip to Joshua Tree. Aaron’s family’s friends, Kurt and Vicki, had been telling him to come visit them in southern California for quite some time. He and Matt had talked about going down there and climbing at Joshua Tree, so they finally decided to do it and invited the girls to join them. Plane tickets were bought, and plans were made with the help of Matt’s brother Dan and sister-in-law Lauren, in addition to Kurt and Vicki. After checking two bags near 50lbs each of climbing gear, we boarded our Alaska flight and took off for the sunny skies over southern California. We arrived late Thursday night in Orange County, spent the night with Dan and Lauren, and headed for the desert Friday morning. We traveled east, soon leaving the hustle and bustle of the towns and finding ourselves driving near 10,000’ mountains and a huge windmill farm. Not long after that we arrived at the west entrance to Joshua Tree. Aaron and Sara got guide books and they decided to check out the Hidden Valley area for our first day. First stop was the Hidden Valley Picnic area, better known as the Real Hidden Valley. Aaron had the giant West Joshua Tree guide book ‘Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West: Quail Springs to Hidden Valley Campground’, while Sara had ‘The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9’, a smaller version to help us narrow down the areas to pick from. Before even stepping out of the truck I grabbed my sunscreen and started applying while the rest of them got the gear out of suit cases. Once we had everything and threw the rest in the truck, we hit the trail.

Real Hidden Valley Area

Our first stop was Thin Wall with a couple promising climbs. Less than a 10 min approach found us at the base of the routes on some nice, sunny rocks. One pair of climbers was just packing up as we arrived and another pair was finishing up a climb. Matt took Almost Vertical (5.7) and Aaron took Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6). Another larger group approached so we hurried up to the start of the routes. Aaron and I scrambled up to the base of the crack on Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6) and started from there. Matt started from the ground, leaving Sara just out of reach of the sun. It was actually pretty cool in the shade and I was glad to have long sleeves on. Aaron put up his first trad lead of the season, built a gear anchor, and belayed me up after him. Matt had just topped out before I started climbing and brought Sara up behind him.

Aaron topped out on Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6)

Aaron and Matt leading their first routes of the season on Thin Wall – Matt on Almost Vertical (5.7) on the left, with Aaron topped out on Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6) on the right

Sara following on Almost Vertical (5.7)

The descents in Joshua Tree were interesting. The descent from Thin Wall involved a scramble that wasn’t too bad except for some big steps that were a little too big for me, but we made it. Next Aaron lead Almost Vertical (5.7) while Sara lead Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6). Both put up great leads and brought Matt and myself up on gear anchors. Knowing the descent we made quick time back to our packs to enjoy some sun.

Aaron leading Almost Vertical (5.7) while Sara leads Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing (5.6)

One guy from one of the groups there told us about some good climbing areas for the rest of our trip. There were some nearby climbs that the guys had talked about trying. On our way in we passed The Sentinel with Fote Hog, a multi-pitch 5.6 route. We decided to go back and see if it was open, and then to grab some late lunch. The boys planned to each lead the first pitch, and the girls would lead the second. Matt and Sara started up first, leaving Aaron and I armed with cameras at the base. To start the climb, you first had to scramble up this little ramp to a tree were you could set a belay anchor for the first pitch.

Sara and Matt heading up the ramp to the tree to start Fote Hog

After a bit of blood shed they made it to the tree and Matt got ready to lead. After checking out the route we decided to have Matt back off and grab lunch instead. As the nice guy told us, often times the first 15’ don’t count. That did seem to be the general trend throughout the weekend – climbs with tough starts. We walked back to the car, grabbed our food, and enjoyed a nice picnic lunch in the sun.

Enjoying lunch in the sun

Puppy Dog Rock – as we named this rock that we found while heading to The Blob

After that we drove across the street to the Hidden Valley Campgrouund. I was hoping to get a lead in before the end of the day so we headed to The Blob, to climb The Bong (5.5). After we found the trail from the parking lot, we made our way to the slabby approach – very reminiscent of the Apron in Squamish. We picked our way up the boulders, crossed the slab part along a little trough, and found the start of the Bong. I geared up and started the lead. The earlier climbs had been more face climbs along a crack to place gear in, this was a bit more of a crack climb. The crux was a roof to pull around. I stuck a piece in right below, worked my way into some cracks to the left, did a bit of a lie back, plugged another piece in right above the roof, and made my way back into the main crack. I placed lots of protection, trying to clear my climbing cowbwebs, and soon found myself near the top. I would have like to place one more piece before exiting the crack onto the slab, but I finally just made the move and topped out easily. I built a gear anchor and belayed Aaron up.

Sara topping out while leading The Bong (5.5)

Aaron and I walked around a bit, trying to find the descent route with the exposed class 4 down climb. We decided to build an anchor, belay me down, I’d place a few pieces of gear along the way, and Aaron would follow. I started down this crumbling face when a person off in the distance yelled to me to direct me to the proper descent route – thank goodness for that person! I headed a little father right and found a ledge leading to a hole I lowered myself through. After that there was a slabby ramp, leading to the chockstones. The ramp ended at the smallest of the three chockstones and I belayed Aaron from there. Once down I ducked between the two chockstones to enter the chimney, took the rope from Aaron, and continue along, underneath one final chockstone.

Aaron squeezing underneath the final chockstone on our descent from The Bong (5.5) on The Blob

There was another couple that had topped out on another route on the Blob and were trying to find their way down. They ended up following us and using the gear, only their second trad climb. The descents at J-Tree were definitely challenging in many cases! Sara was soon behind the, followed by Matt. We packed up our gear as the sun set on the park and we took off for La Quinta to see Kurt and Vicki. We had thought it might be faster to drive through the park – not so much thanks to the curvy roads. We finally arrived and enjoyed a nice lasagna dinner before a pontoon ride on the lake, before passing out in bed.

Sara heading across the slabby bit of The Blob – reminded us of The Apron at Squamish

Sunset at Joshua Tree

Saturday we woke up and helped cook a nice, big breakfast. After that we piled into the truck with Vicki and headed for the west entrance again. Dan and Lauren were heading out that day so we arranged to meet them in the Lost Horse Area. The Atlantis Wall had a lot of lower grade climbs that we figured would be great for the whole group so after grabbing the last parking spot, we hiked in. Unfortunately there were two giant groups on the wall already. The group in the area we were hoping to climb didn’t plan to finish until 3 or 4. We instead looked at the Minotaur Wall right in front of Atlantis. It had a 5.7 and a few routes we could top rope, so we decided to set up shop there. Matt geared up and lead Minotaur (5.7), while Aaron scrambled up to drop a rope on Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9).

Matt Leading Minotaur (5.7)

While they were setting up routes, I decided to teach Vicki how to place gear – since that should be everyone’s first lesson in rock climbing. After that she put on a harness and learned how to tie into the rope. By that point the ropes were up so Sara cleaned Minotaur (5.7) while I tried my hand on Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9). The start proved nearly impossible. There were a few small holds for my hands but a very negative sloping wall for my feet. There was a nice jug in the corner that I touched once but just couldn’t quite reach. The frustration was mounting after scraping down the wall, so I went to the left of the start and found the flake. Using that I got started and was able to reach the nice juggy holds up higher. Once past the start, the route was smooth sailing and I reached the top. After Sara was done cleaning Minotaur, Vicki got suited up and challenged Minotaur (5.7) for her first ever rock climb. Aaron climbed Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9) just to the left to get some action shots as Vicki climbed. I belayed while Sara took pictures and coached.

Vicki climbing Minotaur (5.7), her first ever rock climb! Aaron climbed Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9) to the left to take some action shots during her climb.

Vicki was an amazing climber! She took a few tips from Sara but pulled some really big moves and easily got up the 5.7. Matt and Sara both climbed Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9), while I top roped Minotaur (5.7).

Sara climbing Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9), trying to get passed the difficult start

After that Aaron moved the rope to the right of Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9) to Devine Wind (5.10a). He climbed that, and after figuring out the start to that climb, me, Sara, and Matt all took our turns climbing as well. It was early afternoon, about the time we were expecting Dan and Lauren so we packed up and headed back to the truck for some lunch.

Matt climbing Divine Wind (5.10a)

We found their car nearby, so Sara and I started building sandwiches while they guys tried to follow tracks to find Dan and Lauren. After they gave that up and started on lunch with us, Dan and Lauren appeared. They had hiked in near where we were but were on the other side of a rock formation. After lunch we hiked back in, hoping the group would soon be done on the Atlantis Wall. They were so Sara and I geared up to lead a couple of routes, so that Dan and Lauren could climb with us. I lead Men with Cow's Heads (5.5), while Sara lead Unwiped Butt (5.4) just to the right. I had a nice crack system to follow. There were a few moves that took me a while to pull, but overall the climb was good. Once Sara got past the most difficult start on her climb, she sailed up. Once on top we had a whole new challenge – building creative anchors. There were some nice, large rocks/boulders up there. I managed to sling one a ways back from the edge, and used Aaron’s extra cordelette to extend it to the two cams I managed to place. Sara had a similar situation near her route as well. We figured it out, checked each other’s anchors, and successfully lowered on them.

Lauren climbing Men with Cow's Heads (5.5)

Dan followed Sara up Unwiped Butt (5.4) while Aaron cleaned Men with Cow's Heads (5.5). After he finished, we got Lauren in a harness and she climbed Men with Cow's Heads (5.5) while Dan went back up Unwiped Butt (5.4), only this time trying the 5.7 variation at the top, Taurus. Matt gave him some tips on crack climbing and he gave it a good try. Lauren and Dan lowered together, both with some rock climbing experience now under their belt.

Lauren and Dan lowering down Atlantis Wall

I climbed Taurus (5.7) while Sara went up Men with Cow's Heads (5.5). As she was lowering the rope got stuck in the crack, so she climbed back up and belayed Matt up to try and help. Aaron climbed Taurus (5.7) and dropped the rope, while the three then scrambled down. We got back to the truck just before sunset, after another great day in Joshua Tree.

Sunday would be our third and final day to Joshua Tree. Kurt was going to bring his little brother Harrison, from the Big Brothers Big Sisters program. We caravanned to the park and decided to stop at Quail Springs Picnic Area – Trashcan Rock, right along the road and not far from the west entrance. I quickly geared up to lead The Trough (5.0), so that we could have Kurt and Harrison climb during their short time in the park. Matt belayed me as I ran out the climb. After reaching the main ledge I crawled beneath a couple of rocks, and chimenyed up to some larger rocks with pockets to place gear. It was an awkward position but I finally got a #1, 2, and 3 placed and lowered back down. Meanwhile, Aaron also grabbed gear and lead Karpkwitz (5.6), just to the right of The Trough. Aaron had created a nice harness from a sling for Harrison since our harnesses are a bit big for a 6 year old, and Sara fitted him with her helmet.

Matt helping Harrison tie into the rope before his first rock climb

Kurt with Harrison during a break in the climb

Matt belayed Harrison up The Trough, although his street shoes proved problematic so Kurt gave him a helping hand. Aaron was lowering at that time so he went over and helped Harrison climb the rest of the route, and lower since Harrison didn’t quite weigh enough to really overcome the rope drag.

Aaron giving Harrison some tips while climbing

Once down on the ground, Harrison really enjoyed scrambling around on the rocks. Kurt geared up and took his turn on The Trough for his first climb. He made quick work of it, just in time to pack up and head back. Dan and Lauren also met us so Dan jumped on Karpkwitz (5.6) after Sara finished climbing it. Once he was done, Aaron went up The Trough (5.0) to clean it and Matt climbed Karpkwitz (5.6) to clean it. Apparently the descent was another fun one with a wide crack they had to jump. After a couple quick morning climbs, we drove to the trailhead for Lost Horse Mine and did the 4 mile hike to the mine with Dan and Lauren. Once we were back at the cars, they left for home while we drove around, exploring some of the other areas. We went by Ryan’s campground where there’s lots of rock climbing right in your camping area, Jumbo Rocks, and Skull rock.

Aaron, Me, Matt, and Sara near Jumbo Rocks

We learned that everything in the desert was trying to stab us

On the way back out of the park we stopped for a quick photo op by a Joshua Tree – we kind of had to before we left. We went back to stay with Kurt and Vicki that night, before heading back to Orange County Monday morning. Monday we spent the day getting In-N-Out Burger, lounging on the beach and walking around Balboa island. A fun,, relaxing way to end our trip in California.