Guye Peak - South Gulley 1.7.12
Aaron and I had been talking about steep snow and ice climbs this season. He wanted to do more ice climbing, and I wanted to at least try my hand at the stuff. I had participated in the BOEALPS ice seminar back in Oct 2010 and had a lot of fun. I knew it wouldn’t just be climbing out of crevasses with ice tools, but I did know becoming comfortable with steep snow climbs would open up more mountains and routes to me. Aaron started compiling a list of possible routes to take me on. An opportunity arose to climb the South Gulley of Guye Peak. I’d summitted Guye Peak before, but using the standard route. Another trip up Guye sounded great. Close approach and something that shouldn’t be pushing my skills beyond a reasonable limit. Aaron N and Ambrose joined us as the other team.
Approach via Sahale Ski Club
Instead of the typical Commonwealth Basin approach we came from the west, hiking up near the Sahale ski club on the road to Alpental. It was a welcome change from the maze of trails through the Commonwealth Basin that we normally take. Unfortunately that also meant we didn’t have a compacted trail highway to follow and soon post hole fest began. We were up through the ski area and along a wide path to the base of Guye Peak. We started traversing east along the slope to reach the southeast side of the mountain and the start of the South Gulley. The slope was steeper than I initially realized. We tried sticking to some of the avy debris fields in hopes of finding solid snow that we wouldn’t punch through. Almost to the base of the climb, I stopped and had Aaron grab one of the ice tools off of my pack for me - a little security blanket to finish up the last bit of steep approach.
Heading up to the start of the route
We rounded a corner and found the start of the South Gulley route. Aaron N would lead out first with Ambrose following, and Aaron P leading the second rope close behind. The start was a loosely covered rock with some snow and thin ice. This would be my first time using ice tools on a mixed climb. I watched as the three guys ascended the rock band easily and listened to the tips Aaron yelled down to me. I carefully placed my tools and soon had ascended the band, and found the tree Aaron had used to protect the section.
Start of the route up a nice rock band
Bringing up the rear of the group meant the guys kicked a great stair case for me to follow. It also meant all the snow and icy chunks they kicked down as they were wallowing through the snow found me – mostly my knees. Aaron N had quite the challenge wallowing up through the snow but he did a great job.
Following the nice staircase of steps up
Aaron P slung some trees and placed a couple pickets along the way as protection. At one tree he belayed me in as the group decided which way to go next. After a little exploration, Aaron N decided to just keeping going straight, over a chock stone in our path. The chock stone was covered with a nice layer of ice. The guys made it over, again yelling back some advice for me on tackling the step. There was a rock that the guys could step on to help get them on top of the chock stone. Unfortunately the step was a little too high for me so I employed the beaching technique. Since the ice was actually pretty good, I just worked my tools up as high as I could and then pulled with my arms until I could get a crampon point or two in the ice on top of the rock.
Tree Aaron belayed me from on the left. Ice covered chock stone Aaron N just pulled past
I made it and passed by the little cave in the back, heading up. I mostly used a high dagger while climbing – I think just for my own comfort. I felt much better on the steep stuff if I was close to the snow and had solid placements. We reached another little ice step on the left side of the gulley, where the ice was a little less stellar. Aaron P managed to place an ice screw though, the only one of the day. The bottom of the icy ramp was better than the top, but I managed to grab the screw and continue up.
Ambrose just above the second ice step
A little bit more and we took a left to gain the last ridges to the summit. Aaron P took the lead and I followed him up the last section. It was no harder in terms of steepness or moves I had to pull, but being out of the trees made it feel a lot more exposed. Aaron managed to sling a couple trees and before I knew it, I was cresting a little knoll as he belayed me in. We waited for Aaron N, who was right behind me, to bring in Ambrose, and then we did the little traverse over to the summit.
Aaron N belaying Ambrose up
Traversing to the summit
The clouds had rolled in so there were no amazing views to be had. Instead, we grabbed a quick snack and then started the traverse back across the summits, to descend the typical Commonwealth Basin route.
Ambrose and Aaron N on the south summit
My first time up Guye Peak in April of 2010 we had reached all three summits, so I had a faint recollection of the route back. This time I was just tied to Aaron instead of having many fixed lines for us students. As we descended from the middle summit it was pretty steep, but after taking my time I was at the base of the last slope to reach the tree near the North summit. After reaching the top of that section, we packed up our crampons and climbing gear and started down. We didn’t bring snowshoes and there was not a boot pack so the going was a little slow again, post holing quite often. We finally reached the super highway of trails, found the log crossing, and were back at the car looking up at Guye Peak and the South Gulley we had just climbed. It was a great first steep snow climb with a couple of small ice steps. I gained some confidence on the steep stuff and became more comfortable using ice tools and climbing in my crampons. Thanks to the Aarons and Ambrose for all the steps and letting me tag along.
View Guye Peak 1.7.12 in a larger map
Snoqualmie Pass area
Trail up Guye Peak - the ascent mostly
Trail down from Guye Peak
South Gulley Route