Smith Rock 7.16 - 7.17.11

It was the second BRC weekend, this outing at Smith. Aaron, Alicia, and I loaded up my car after work on Friday and started off on the 6 hour trek to Oregon. The drive went well enough despite the thunderstorm we encountered in Oregon. None of us had seen that in a while, it even forced a couple of cars off the road. We made it through the storm and stopped for dinner before continuing onto Smith Rock state park for our camping. We set up tents and hit the hay, excited for my first day of climbing at Smith the next day. We woke up early and joined everyone in town for some breakfast at Smith Rock Restaurant before driving back to the park. Aaron and I planned to climb Spiderman (5.7) with Kristy and Cheryl. We decided to head over via Asterik Pass, an interesting adventure to start the day. We took the trail through the beautiful park and made our way up to the pass.

Smith Rock State Park

Asterik Pass

We went far right to start and soon decided we had gone the wrong way. Aaron continued on anyways, using a rappel to get down. Kristy, Cheryl, and I reversed to find a different way over the pass with a little less exposed scrambling. We went to the notch and started down when Aaron met us. After making our way down the ramp like rock, we were back on the trail and heading for Spiderman Buttress.

I racked up and started on the climb. It was rated 5.7 which was the hardest I was leading so I wanted a warm up. However, Aaron encouraged me to lead the first and second pitches combined, the second pitch containing the crux 5.7 bulge move. I would see how I was feeling after that before deciding if I would lead the final pitch as well. I headed up, placing gear fairly well as I went. I got to the bulge, placed a piece and didn't feel very comfortable so I placed another one near by, and pulled the move. I got up to the bolted anchor and belayed Aaron up, as Kristy started up behind him. After talking it over and some encouragement from Aaron, I set off to lead the final pitch up. The first move was a step over to a crack to get up to the roof to climb up and around it to climbers right. The step into the crack was definitely the hardest part for me. I got into the crack system, placed a nut under the roof, and continued on. Up to a ledge, then a blocky ramp and I was on top of the route, belaying Aaron up. Before long he joined me and we decided to hang out on top, Aaron even sunning himself a little. The forecast for the weekend wasn't very great with thunderstorms threatening.

All of a sudden we felt drops and scrambled to a nearby little cove in the rocks. Kristy hadn't yet topped out and I couldn't imagine climbing through the rain. Aaron started planning in case Kristy and Cheryl got stuck on the side of the rock in a storm. We were relieved to see Kristy finally top out in the pouring rain. Aaron decided to go see if he could assist with a friendly belay if Cheryl had difficulties with the route in the weather. He only had on a cotton shirt so he left that in the cave by me so he'd have something dry and warm in case we had to wait out the weather a bit. He went over by Kristy, who was drenched after her lead through the pouring rain, so I gave her my dry long sleeve shirt, thankfully, as it then started hailing.

Kristy belaying with Aaron standing nearby in the pouring rain and hail

Aaron stayed by Kristy as Cheryl finished the route. Quite the trooper, she didn't take any extra help despite following in the pouring rain and hail! We made our way down, setting up a quick rappel so that we didn't have to worry about down climbing the wet rock.

Alicia and Sara appeared after the rain, having done some sport climbing in the morning. They were ready to get some trad leads in so they started on nearby First Ascent Crack (5.4). After that they both lead the first pitch of Spiderman (5.6).

Sara leading First Ascent (5.4)

Alicia leading First Ascent (5.4)

Alicia cleaning the first pitch of Spiderman (5.6) before leading it

Then we ventured to the other side and I lead Spiderman Variation (5.5) giving Alicia just enough time to clean the route and get back down as the rain started again. We started down the path in the pouring rain, deciding to take the river trail around instead of scrambling back over Asterik Pass in the rain. The trail was long but would have been very enjoyable had we not been soaked and walking through some sunshine instead. We arrived back at the trailhead, a bit later than our deadline, but ready for some delicious dinner at the Depot.

Sunday morning we didn't head into town for breakfast so that we could get a little extra sleep. I was paired with Alex for Sunday, climbing with Matt and Marius. We had thrown around a few multi-pitches and finally decided on First Kiss as we hiked in. First Kiss was a 5.8 bolted route of 5 pitches on Kiss of the Lepers Buttress. Our route involved heading up Misery Ridge - definitely a bit of misery on that hike with its tall steps. We passed by Monkey Face though so we got to see Brandon and Robin about to head up into the mouth.

Monkey Face with Brandon and Robin about to start up to the mouth

We made our way down to the climb and Matt started up. He lead the first and second pitch first, a 5.7 and 5.8. The hardest I had lead on sport was 5.8 so I was a little nervous for the second pitch. Matt left his draws for me so that I could protect some of the moves before I pulled them, making the lead a lot easier for me. The climbing was different. I was leading up cracks on Saturday but First Kiss was full of face climbing, involving little nubs and pockets. The third pitch was a traverse climbers left, and I lead it off first. After that we had a somewhat traversing pitch up more climbers left, and after that I lead the final pitch straight up.

Alex, Matt, and Marius at the third belay station as I lead the fourth pitch

Looking back down the beginning of the fourth pitch

It was a fun climb and we had some great views from the top. We decided to rappel down, three double rope rappels. Matt set it up and down he went, followed by Alex and Marius, with me bringing up the rear. The third rappel down had two free rappel sections which were a lot of fun, the last one through a cave that reminded me of the cavern in the Little Mermaid. I think all of the pigeons at Smith lived in there. I couldn't believe that there was a bolted climb up through it! A fun rappel down though. After that we headed for Asterik Pass to do the scramble back over. It was a great weekend of climbing. It was my first time at Smith and I got some great leads in!

View Smith Rock 7.16.11 in a larger map Map for this adventure

Smith Rock State Park

Red was our path on Saturday part way through our approach until we arrived back at the cars. I didn't use the GPS on Sunday, although that would have been a fun trail over Misery Ridge. You can see the far left climbing area which is Spiderman Buttress

Looking along the other side of the rock, the river trail winding it's way around. After the second Thunderstorm Saturday we took the river trail, avoiding climbing over wet rock in the pass

Spiderman Buttress (click 'View Details' to see graphs and stats). Didn't turn the GPS on until we were passing over Asterik Pass

Stats for this adventure