Mazama Cragging 7.3.11

After a great climb in the Liberty Bell group, we decided to take it easy and head to Mazama for some cragging. We stopped at the little store in Mazama (note to self they have breakfast sandwiches) and went to the main cragging area just down the road. Kevin wanted to head back early so we figured we could crag for part of the day at least. Ambrose joined us on Sunday. Aaron had picked up a Mazama book in Winthrop when he was there Friday night, so we decided to go check out Sun Rock, near Fun Rock. The area was very well developed with trails and signs, and after about a 5 minute walk we arrived at sun rock.

Heading up the trail near Fun Rock on our way to Sun Rock
Heading up the trail near Fun Rock on our way to Sun Rock

Meredith decided to start on Gobbledygook (5.6) while I lead Smoove B (5.7-) just left of it. The rock was different from anything I had climbed on before. It was mostly face climbing but with small holds and little nubs for your feet, with some slabby sections thrown in randomly. The ratings were pretty well on. After Smoove B Meredith and I shifted left one so she would lead Smoove B and I lead Cognitive Dissonance (5.7+). Aaron and Ambrose were great sports, following and cleaning the routes as Meredith and I put them up. Kevin's knee was still bothering him so he helped belay a little and then went and took pictures from the top of the rock.

Ambrose following Meredith's lead on Gobbledygook (5.6)
Ambrose following Meredith's lead on Gobbledygook (5.6)

Aaron following my lead on Smoove B (5.7-)
Aaron following my lead on Smoove B (5.7-)

Meredith leading Cognitive Dissonance (5.7+)
Meredith leading Cognitive Dissonance (5.7+)

We shifted left again so I lead Prometheus The Giggolo (5.8). It was a fun climb with a big slab bulge about 2/3 of the way up. Some nice finger pockets had been drilled out of the rock though so it wasn't too hard. Strangely I felt as if my shoes weren't sticking as well as they usually did, knocking my confidence a little. We shifted one more time so that Meredith could lead the 5.8, so I decided to finish up the wall and do the 5.6, Gobbledygook. After I lead that Kevin decided he wanted to get one route in and lead Gobbledygook as well. Aaron cleaned and we moved to another section of sun rock with some more challenging climbs for Ambrose and Aaron to lead.

Kevin's lead on Gobbledygook
Kevin's lead on Gobbledygook

Aaron cleaning the route on Gobbledygook
Aaron cleaning the route on Gobbledygook

Ambrose picked out a 5.10b, A Void, the Obvious, while Aaron decided to lead a 5.10a, The Sun King. They were fun routes that Kevin, Meredith, and I took turns top roping. Aaron's had some little roof moves that he says were well protected, while Ambrose had a crazy step over. The 5.10b was definitely challenging. I decided to try a nearby 5.7, Flying Lizzard, with a step over. It started the same as A Void, the Obvious but forked off climbers left. I headed up some blocky rock but believe I ended up doing the 5.6, Bambino Buttress. It was interesting trying to get lowered due to all of the ledges but I made it down. It was early afternoon and the sun was really hot. We decided to see if anything was open down at Fun Rock in the shade, but it was busy so we called it a day and headed towards Winthrop to find a tapas place we had heard about, Wesola Polana. We picked a table outside since it was so nice and enjoyed a nice meal with a couple we had met at the rock, Matt and Christina. Unfortunately the tapas were only available on Friday and Saturday (it was Sunday), but we found some other good food to enjoy. After lunch Kevin and Meredith headed back to Seattle while Ambrose headed towards Leavenworth. Aaron and I drove the rest of the way into Winthrop to get some ice cream before heading back to the campground for the night. A nice, relaxed day of cragging in the sun was complete.

Aaron in Winthrop, excited for some ice cream
Aaron in Winthrop, excited for some ice cream

In Winthrop
In Winthrop

Map for this adventure

The Fun rock area we climbed at in Mazama
The Fun rock area we climbed at in Mazama

Our trail to Sun Rock - you can tell all the crazy lines is where we climbed
Our trail to Sun Rock - you can tell all the crazy lines is where we climbed

Routes and Stats

All at Sun Rock

  • Smoove B (5.7-): 1 pitch, first sport lead of the weekend
  • Cognitive Dissonance (5.7+): 1 pitch, sport lead
  • Prometheus The Giggolo (5.8): 1 pitch, sport lead
  • Gobbledygook (5.6): 1 pitch, sport lead
  • The Sun King (5.10a): 1 pitch, cleaned route, top roped
  • A Void, the Obvious (5.10b): 1 pitch, top roped
  • Bambino Buttress (5.6): 1 pitch, sport lead

The GPS went a little crazy while climbing. For instance, the start and finish of the track should be the same.

Stats for this adventure

Entire photo album for this adventure