South Early Winters Spire - South Arete 7.2.11

It was America's birthday which can only mean one thing - climbing at Washington Pass. Or at least, that's what I was told. Kevin, Meredith, and I ventured out into horrible traffic after work on Friday to meet Aaron already at the campground near the pass, Lone Fir Campground. After settling for some food at the IGA in Darrington (we were afraid there would be nothing more) we soon turned onto Highway 20 to finish the long trek from Seattle. We arrived, set up tents, and turned in for the night. The plan in the morning was to head for South Early Winters Spire (SEWS) in the Liberty Bell Group, taking on the easy South Arete route rated at a 5.5. This would be my first time leading an alpine multi-pitch climb. I had lead Unicorn but that was mostly a snow slog until the last little bit of rock at the top. Kevin got paired up with me (the poor guy) and Meredith planned to climb with Aaron. Eric was at the pass too so he joined up with Aaron and Meredith to climb as a team of 3.

The Blue Lake trailhead parking lot was still full of snow so we parked across the street from the little driveway and geared up. There were already several cars by the trailhead and a few groups getting ready as we were, although they all looked to have skis. We left sometime around 8 or 9 and caught the boot pack climbers trail from the parking lot. Eric had been in climbing the day before so he knew where to find it. It was nice being able to bypass the switchbacks of the normal trail and take a more direct route to the rock. Meredith lead us up and we were soon out of the trees and treated with our first views of the day.

Kevin heading up the snowfield with some of the North Cascades behind him

The North Cascades are by far my favorite place to climb because of the amazing views - you are surrounded by awesome jagged, often snow topped peaks. I wasn't feeling the greatest so we took a break so I could rest, allowing a couple of the others to fix their boots. We had SEWS in sight and made our way up.

South Early Winters Spire on the right

We made it up to the saddle and headed climbers left to the base of the route. We combined gear for the day into a pack per team. Kevin took my pack since it was smaller (38L) and we put some clothes, food, water, and my boots in it. I wasn't comfortable leading in my boots so I wore my rock shoes. We didn't know how snow filled the route would be though so I wanted my boots. Eric lead off the first pitch with Meredith and Aaron following behind.

Eric leading the first pitch of the South Arete up South Early Winters Spire

The first pitch is definitely the crux, requiring the group to pull some slab moves in boots. I was the only one out of the five of us to wear rock shoes. The first pitch was pretty straight forward as you followed the cracks up and to climbers right. The end of the pitch had a tree with several slings and rap rings, doubling as the last rap station on the way down. Meredith was just starting off on the second pitch when I reached the tree. It was her first time leading trad and she would lead the rest of the route for Eric and Aaron. I brought Kevin up to the belay station and I set off on the second pitch with him belaying.

The second pitch headed up the gully to a chimney. It was easy climbing but I managed to place a few pieces of gear. The chimney was fun and I anchored into the next rap station tree as the first group was headed up. Kevin soon joined me at the second belay station and we set about shortening the rope between us so that we could start simul-climbing, a first for both of us. We apparently like to throw Kevin in. His first time climbing outside is when he first learned to lead belay me so that I could do my first trad route, which meant he had to climb as well. His first alpine climb would be a 5 pitch climb with simul-climbing. Good thing he's a great sport and picks up everything quickly. While getting situation at the anchor, a group decided to pass us (it was so nice of them to force their way by). I guess it was a reminder of how busy/popular the route is. Once the second climber finally cleared us, we started up and at the next rap tree I found I went climbers right around it. Either way would have worked. I soon found myself heading up some blocky flakes, placing gear as I went. I spotted Aaron up a little ways and decided to belay Kevin in from there. There was a little snow patch we had to cross before we could head up to where the other group was. Kevin kicked some steps for me through the snow since I had my rock shoes on and we made our way up to the Shark Fin.

Where I belayed Kevin in to end our first bit of simul-climbing. We crossed that snow pitch and headed up to the top notch just right of the gully

Aaron crossing the Shark Fin

The Shark Fin is a nice slabby traverse with one bolt for protection in the middle. After waiting for another group to come back across it, Meredith lead out for the first team. She crossed it and continued up, simul-climbing with her rope team. Eric grabbed the draw and continued across (after some awesome airplane moves) with Aaron bringing up the rear. Kevin and I shortened our rope a bit more as Aaron had shown me the kiwi coil. I lead across the shark fin, anchored into a tree on the other side, and belayed Kevin across. We were soon on our way up the last little bit. I started up some more blocky flakes, finding lots of trees to sling - my favorite. The other group had summited as we were still climbing so I took some pictures of them.

Eric and Aaron on the summit of South Early Winters Spire

I dropped down to cross the gully and head up the other side to the summit. Kevin and I made it, stashed our packs, and made our way up onto the summit rock. I made Aaron climb back up so that we could get a summit picture together, then Kevin came up for some summit pictures as well.

Aaron on the summit - again

On the summit of SEWS

Kevin on the summit of SEWS, his first alpine climb

The view was of course amazing with snow topped mountains all around. Great weather, fun rock, gorgeous views, and good company made for a great day of climbing.

View from the summit

After just a short break we headed back down.

Eric enjoying lunch at the top

We downclimbed to the shark fin unroped. I lead across the fin and then belayed people across. We downclimbed some more until we reached the third rap tree I remembered passing on the way up. We set up a single rope rappel and headed down - Aaron first, followed by Kevin. Kevin took the second rope so they could set up the second rappel back down the chimney, trying to keep the group moving. I grabbed the first rope after we were all down and rappeled down to help set up our third and final rappel back down the first pitch. As we were coming down Kevin spotted a group of goats at the base of our climb - eying our packs. We made it down and made sure to shoo the goats away. Eric has a great relationship with mountain goats and chased one while waving his ice axe over his head. The goat ran around a group of trees, up onto a rock, and practically lept over Meredith and Eric to go running down the steep hillside.

Goats at the base of the rock climb

We packed up and started making our way down the mountain - taking advantage of the glissade chutes before we hit the meadow. My pants were doing an awesome job of glissading and we made good time down. We picked our way through the meadow, a bit more melted out after a day of sunshine, and were back in the trees trying to find out way back to the parking lot. After a quick check of my GPS to make sure we were still on track, we soon found ourselves back in the parking lot and heading back to camp for a night of fire roasted sausages, beer, and hanging out with friends.

View South Early Winters Spire 7.2.11 in a larger map Map for this adventure

Our trail up SEWS at Washington Pass

The climb up to SEWS in the Liberty Bell Group

Climb up to SEWS on the far right in the Liberty Bell Group

Rock pitches up to the summit

South Early Winters Spire - South Arete